COOP - Extension FAQs

We have a 9 acre cabin site in the conifers near Soldiers Summit at 8400 ft. In recent update on google earth I noted new blighted red area in tree tops. Who are professional applicators or can land owner administer insecticide? Arborjet recommends several treatments see www.arborjet.com/problems-solutions/pine-bark-beetle.htm

maggies@ext.usu.edu (Maggie Shao) — Mon, 14 Apr 2008 00:00:00 MST

I suppose my experience in forestry is why I was forwarded your question about conifers on 9 acres near Soldiers Summit. From Utah Division of Forestry, Fire & State Lands Forest Health 2003 report, Mixed conifer forests occur at elevations from about 8,000 to 10,000 feet. Douglas-fir, white fir, and lodgepole pine are the main tree species in this type. Spruce, subalpine fir, and ponderosa pine may also be a component of mixed conifer forests. Species diversity in this habitat type contributes to wildlife habitat diversity.

Bark Beetle Impacts

In a healthy forest, endemic levels of insects and diseases serve to remove weakened and stressed trees, thus thinning the forest and reducing competition for light, water, and nutrients. Overly dense forests composed primarily of larger diameter mature trees are less vigorous. Such sites are preferred by many species of bark beetles, which contributes to outbreaks. Large-scale insect outbreaks often result in an accumulation of down woody debris,which can increase fire intensity.

Before spraying, it is of utmost importance to have proper diagnosis of tree health. We have been in a drought for 7-8 years in the last 10 years, so browning of needles does not necessarily mean there is a pest issue. Granted due to drought stress, trees do become more susceptible to secondary health issues like beetle infestation or plant diseases. Here are a couple links to Utah Division of Forestry, Fire & State Lands information on bark beetles in Utah.

Ips Bark Beetle

http://www.ffsl.utah.gov/foresthealth/insectdisease/IpsengraverBeetle.pdf

Mountain Pine Beetle

http://www.ffsl.utah.gov/foresthealth/insectdisease/Mountainpinebeetle.pdf

There are recommendations on the fact sheet, again only after a proper diagnosis from a forester or arborist to confirm.

I have a lawn with necrotic ring, it has been treated with f:stop. Question; Future construction will remove much of the sod. Should I treat the soil before I lay new sod.

kelly.kopp@usu.edu (Kelly Kopp) — Thu, 24 Jan 2008 00:00:00 MST

I would not recommend treating the soil prior to laying new sod. While you have experienced problems with necrotic ring spot, the organisms that cause
this disease are always present. They only "outbreak" when the conditions are right. What I would recommend is that you work to keep the new sod
healthy and manage it so that outbreaks of necrotic ringspot are reduced.

To that end, cultural controls recommended by our Plant Pest Diagnostic Lab include:

Cultural techniques that prevent the lawn from becoming stressed will help prevent these two diseases. In early spring or fall, the lawn should be
aerated. Aeration improves water penetration and reduces thatch, thus alleviating conditions that cause stress. Nitrogen fertilizer should be
applied frequently at low rates or in slow release forms such as sulfur coated urea or IBDU. This avoids undesirable flushes of growth which are
more susceptible to disease. Mow the lawn at a height of 2-3 inches often enough so that only 30-40% of the leaf length is removed per mowing. In most
soils, the lawn should be watered infrequently and deeply. Sandy soils will require more frequent, light irrigation. Wet the entire rot zone when
irrigating.

I have rings in my lawn that are about two feet wide. I suspect they are fairy ring, but the description for fairy ring doesn't quite fit. The inside of the circle is not lush and green, it looks the same as the rest of the lawn. There is just a semi-dead cirle surrounding good lawn. Do you have any help for me.

heidi.wayman@usu.edu (Heidi Wayman) — Fri, 12 Oct 2007 00:00:00 MST

Without actually seeing your lawn it is difficult to give you an accurate diagnosis of your problem. There are several reasons that your lawn may have brown spots or rings. The most common culprit is water. If you have a sprinkler head that is blocked, missing, or broken it can cause some parts of your lawn to become brown. A check of your sprinkler system can help you to identify if this is the problem. You can find a once a month sprinkler system checklist at http://www.conservewater.utah.gov/OutdoorUse/MaintenanceCheck.htm.

Another reason you may be seeing brown rings in your lawn may be insect related. Before applying any pesticides it is very important to identify what kind of insect it is. The best way to diagnose an insect problem is to check the lawn. Insects typically feed on the edges of the brown spots. If you do find an insect but are unsure of what kind of insect it is the Utah Pests Webpage http://utahpests.usu.edu/ has a lot of information including pictures. You can also bring a sample of the insect into the USU Extension Office located at 2001 S. State Street for identification. Our office hours are Monday through Friday 8:00 am to 5:00 pm.

A third reason may be a fungal disease. There are two different diseases that match your description. The first is Necrotic Ring Spot. This is a cool season disease that shows up March through May and September through November. This particular disease is very common in 2 to 5 year old bluegrass lawns that have been established from sod. It shows up as dead circles or arches of browning lawn that range in size from a few inches to a few feet that are surrounded by a patch of green lawn that gives a donut appearance. The second disease is called Summer Patch. It has very similar symptoms as Necrotic Ring Spot. It becomes evident May through September. Some recommendations in treatment for fungal diseases are:

1) Control thatch buildup with regular core aeration at least once a year.
2) Water less frequently but to greater depth. The soil should be moistened 8 – 10 inches deep.
3) Remove layers of leaves from lawn during winter.

You can learn more about these turf diseases at http://utahpests.usu.edu/plantdiseases/htm/turf/turfdiseases.

To help provide you with a better diagnosis of what is happening in your lawn and a better treatment plan you can bring a sample into the USU Extension Office. To take your sample, dig a 4- to 6-inch chunk of lawn (including the soil) on the margin of a brown spot. Include a section with both living and dead turf.

I have a 25-foot tall scrub oak that appears to be dying. If it is anthracnose that is killing it, can it be saved? There are some commercial, injectable products that claim success. Is it possible?

maggiew@ext.usu.edu (Maggie Wolf) — Wed, 12 Sep 2007 00:00:00 MST

Typically, anthracnose will not kill scrub oak. It does make them look less attractive, though. Because it is a fungal disease, cultural controls may help lessen the disease incidence to the point it is almost unnoticeable.

Good cultural control strategies are to: rake up leaves every fall and dispose of them. Prune the trees to open the canopy and allow more light and air to penetrate the tree. Prevent irrigation overspray onto the tree foliage.

USU Extension offers a good publication about Gambel Oak Care at this
website: http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG-514.pdf

My tomato plants look beautiful. However, most of the tomatoes, when they start to turn red, they also start to spoil and turn black from the bottom up. Why is that? Could it be bugs or too much water?

juliat.ucadm.utahcounty@state.ut.us (Julia Tuck) — Wed, 15 Aug 2007 00:00:00 MST

Your tomatoes have Blossom End Rot. It can be caused by inconsistent watering and/or a calcium deficiency. We have lots of calcium in our soil, so I bet it's your watering...
The tomatoes like to be watered down 18" every 5 days (your other vegetables can be watered down to a depth of 12" one time a week). Throw away the affected tomatoes because they usually taste terrible. If you water correctly, the new tomatoes should taste wonderful.

You may wish to go to the following website. It has excellent
information on Blossom End Rot, and pictures, so you can compare your
tomatoes with theirs.

http://utahpests.usu.edu/plantdiseases/htm/vegetable/blossomrot

http://utahpests.usu.edu/plantdiseases/htm/vegetable/blossomrot/blossomrotimages

We are trying to revive some neglected apple trees that were pretty dried out. We forked up some of the dead grass and sprinkled for a few hours. But the leaves are curled along their axis like a hark cor taco instead of being their normal flat like a tostada selves. Is this a result of too much water, not enough, insects or what?

maggiew@ext.usu.edu (Maggie Wolf) — Wed, 15 Aug 2007 00:00:00 MST

Apple trees are, surprisingly, quite drought tolerant. However, there are many varieties that are susceptible to powdery mildew, which can cause the type of leaf curl you're talking about. Although, the trees themselves can survive well in a drought, they won't produce much of a crop that way. So, most apple tree growers keep the trees well watered. You can practice good "orchard floor" management (even if there's only a few trees in your yard) to reduce the lawn's competition for available soil moisture and allow the trees to get that water. Ideally, there should be no grass (or other plants) growing within the dripline of the tree. The dripline, in case you've never heard of it, is an imaginary line at the outer border of where water might drip from the tree leaves. About one-third of the tree's roots will be within that area. Keeping that area plant-free and mulched will help keep the tree healthy and vigorous.

Here are links to more information about powdery mildew on apples:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.apples.html

http://utahpests.usu.edu/plantdiseases/htm/fruit/applepowder/applepowder
images
http://utahpests.usu.edu/plantdiseases/htm/fruit/applepowder

Here are links to more information about other possible pest
problems of
apples:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r4100311.html

An ornamental cherry tree that has been planted for 3 years suddenly dropped all of it's leaves. Leaves were green one day; gone the next. A neighbor verified some of the branches are dead (using a scratch test); others are still green. Tree has been watered by sprinkler, also deep watered with slow hose twice during the summer. The base of the tree does not seem to have any borer damage. Tree is in full sun. Any ideas?

jaydee.gunnell@usu.edu (Jaydee Gunnell) — Tue, 14 Aug 2007 00:00:00 MST

Regarding your question about your ornamental cherry dropping leaves suddenly; with out seeing the tree or knowing more about how much water your sprinklers are supplying I can only venture a guess. It is a distinct possibility that the tree may be getting too much water from the sprinkling system. Cherry trees especially don’t like to have “wet feet”. And in heavy clay soils (which are typical) the water tends to hang around for extended periods of time. A good indication of whether this is the issue, dig down next to the tree and observe the soil conditions. If it is sticky and mucky you know it is too much water. You may also get a musty smell indicating the presence of rotting organisms. Once the roots rot away the tree has no way of getting water up to the leaves, this can cause the tree to drop the leaves. Another thing to look for are circling roots that can “choke” the tree and or the tree being buried too deep. When a tree is planted too deep, the soil around the trunk will rot the conductive tissues away which will also prevent the conductive tissues from supplying water to the leaves.

I have a bartlett pear tree. A Limb is almost black, but growth was still coming out of the ends, so i didn't prune it off the tree all the way in the spring. Now other parts of the tree are turning black, some of the leaves are curling and turning black as well as some of the fruit. Can I save the tree, or do I need to pull it out. Also will this spread to my other two nearby peach and apple tree.

maggiew@ext.usu.edu (Maggie Wolf) — Tue, 05 Jun 2007 12:00:00 MST

Bartlett pear is very susceptible to fire blight, a bacterial disease that can eventually kill the entire tree.

Here is a link to more detailed information about fire blight:

http://utahpests.usu.edu/plantdiseases/htm/fruit/fireblight

and here is a link to a webpage with pictures of fireblight:

http://utahpests.usu.edu/htm/photo/id.2/gid.15

Apple is also susceptible to fireblight, but peach is not. Always watch your orchard carefully. If you see a branch tip showing the typical "crook" and blackened leaves, prune the branch back at least 12 inches below any discoloration. This will most likely prevent the disease from spreading into the rest of the tree.

On the other hand, are you sure your tree was not freeze damaged a couple of weeks ago? Blackened leaves are often caused by freeze damage. My grape plant was damaged , but new growth looks okay. If you see new, healthy leaves growing from the same branch tips where leaves are blackened, perhaps the tree is fine.

I have a scarlett red maple. It's about 8 years old and last year the leaves didn't get very big. This year, it hasn't even began to bloom yet although, It has tiny buds. I noticed that the bark in some places peels off very easily. Under the bark, it looks like there may be some black flecks (maybe bug feces). I only noticed one little red colored bug under where I peeled the bark. I don't see any other bugs anywhere, even at the base. Do you think it could have a disease or bugs? I am going to put some fertilizer steaks around it and pour some Bayer Advanced tree and shrub insect control around the base of the tree. Is it too late to spary it?

maggiew@ext.usu.edu (Maggie Wolf) — Fri, 27 Apr 2007 12:00:00 MST

USU Extension recommends that you always identify a pest before applying any treatment to ailing plants. Many plants suffer from environmental problems, so applying chemical insecticides may be a waste of time and money, plus an unnecessary poison in our environment.

Poor quality and poorly planted trees often exhibit the symptoms you describe after about 6 to 10 years. If the tree had been growing in a pot too long, its roots would start growing in circles at the bottom of the pot. If these circling roots were not cut or straightened out at planting, they may now have grown large enough to strangle the main tree trunk. Unfortunately, there is no solution to this problem. To know if this is the problem, clear soil away from the main trunk about 6 to 12 inches below the soil line. Are there circling roots growing tightly against the trunk?

If you clear away the soil and circling roots are not apparent, and you can see roots growing outward away from the tree trunk, then check the trunk itself. If the tree was planted too deeply, it may get crown rot. The crown of the tree (where the trunk meets the roots) stays too wet and starts to rot away. When this happens, little or no water can move up from the roots into the top of the tree.

Maples are also susceptible to "southwest injury" that will cause the peeling bark you have mentioned. During winter, bright sunshine heats up the bark on the southwest side of the trunk, and water may move into cell membranes as if the tree is getting ready to exit dormancy. At night, the temperature dips below freezing and the water within the cells freezes and may burst the cell membranes, killing the cells. Thus, that side of the trunk dies. To avoid this, wrap the trunk in winter or shade the SW side of the trunk somehow.

There are also some diseases that can cause the symptoms you describe. To diagnose the problem better, take some photos and a piece of tree limb into your county Extension office. An Agent or a Master Gardener Volunteer will help you figure out what is wrong with your tree.

Good gardening!

What are the best cures for fungus type lawn diseases. We've tried infrequent deeper watering, which makes it worse, higher mowing in the hotter months, airation shoes, and everthing else suggested. We know we have clay under the topsoil.

maggiew@ext.usu.edu (Maggie Wolf) — Mon, 23 Apr 2007 12:00:00 MST

The best "cure" for fungus in turfgrass is prevention. By eliminating fungus's preferred habitat, you will eliminate the disease. All of the suggested cultural practices you mention (infrequent and deeper watering, aeration, and raising the mower deck in summer) are good practices. But there is one critical element you did not mention - thatch.

Thatch is the spongy layer of dead and dying leaf and root tissue layered on top of the soil but beneath the grass blades. If this layer is thicker than one-half inch, it may be allowing fungus to stay protected.

Diagnose your thatch problem by digging out a cross-section slice of lawn. Measure the distance between true soil and growing grass blades. If it is as thick as three-quarter inch, you have a problem.

To decrease thatch, core aerate twice annually. Be sure that the lawn is aerated very well - run the aerator over the same area twice (in two different directions, just as you would fertilize with a drop-spreader). You needn't remove the cores. Aerate in spring and again in late summer or fall.

Are you cycling your irrigation? If you have clay soil under topsoil, irrigate as if the entire soil profile was clay. This assures good water percolation through the root zone.

For more information about Basic Turfgrass Care, see the USU Extension publication with that title at http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG_517.pdf

What is causing the holes in my peach and cherry trees?

marion.murray@usu.edu (Marion Murray) — Thu, 22 Feb 2007 12:00:00 MST

It sounds like the disease is shot-hole, or Coryneum blight (Wilsonomyces carpophilus). This fungus attacks apricots, peaches and nectarines. Classic symptoms include gummy resin-like material on buds and stems that have been infected. The leaves develop red spots or initial infections that expand into lesions. Eventually, the lesions abscise and fall out creating a shot hole appearance, which is what you are seeing. Lesions can form on buds, stems, and fruit. This pathogen spreads in moist wet conditions.

Homeowner control of this disease is primarily based on cultural management. Prune out all diseased wood in early spring. Continue pruning visible infections during the growing season, but only when the weather is dry to prevent spread. Use a 10% bleach solution to disinfest the pruners after each cut. Remove all infected branches from the property. This will reduce the amount of spores available for infection. Irrigate at ground level to avoid wetting the leaves and branches. This helps to reduce the spread of spores. Limit the amount of nitrogen applied to the tree. Rapid growth promotes fungal development.

If necessary, captan is a contact fungicide that is available for homeowners and can be applied during the growing season starting in spring. Multiple applications may be necessary. Read the label carefully for application instructions.

A large branch has died on my apple tree. What could have killed it?

marion.murray@usu.edu (Marion Murray) — Thu, 22 Feb 2007 00:00:00 MST

More than likely a canker killed the branch on your tree. Cankers are caused by fungi, and the most common species on fruit and ornamental trees in Utah belong to the genus Cytospora. Cytospora will attack a number of ornamental and fruit trees including peach, cherry, apricot, apple, poplar, willow, birch, and aspen. Cytospora, and most canker-causing fungi, enters the wood through wounds as small as. Once the pathogen has established itself in the wood, there is no way to remove it. It will grow slowly over a period of several months, so that once you notice it, the best management option is to remove the diseased limb.

Areas affected by cankers will have sunken and darker, discolored bark. If you scrape the bark away, the wood underneath will be Prune out the affected limb at least 6-inches below the canker. Disinfect your pruners between each cut with a mixture of bleach and water.

My squash plants turned white and wilted this summer. What happened?

marion.murray@usu.edu (Marion Murray) — Thu, 22 Feb 2007 00:00:00 MST

Your squash plants were infested with a disease called powdery mildew, which can be common in Utah. There are over 300 different species of powdery mildew, and many of them are host specific, meaning the mildew that you have on your squash, cucumbers, and other cucurbits will not spread to a different type of plant. The white you are seeing is the mycelium and fruiting bodies of the fungus itself (Sphaerotheca fuliginea).

Initial infection occurs via airborne spores from neighboring plants. The disease can develop very quickly once infection occurs, and is first visible on the shaded undergrowth, where leaves are dense, light is low, and humidity is moderate. The infected leaves will turn yellow, wither, and die.

The best way to manage powdery mildew in the future is prevention. Once infection has occurred, there is no way to “cure” that plant. Use powdery mildew-resistant cultivars of squash and other cucurbits. Examples include ‘sungold’, ‘sunray’, and ‘success’ summer squashes, ‘payroll’ and ‘ambassador’ zucchinis, and ‘table star’, ‘bugle’, and ‘celebration’ winter squashes. In fall, remove and destroy all infected plant material—do not till the debris from your vegetable garden into the soil. In the spring, start your plantings in a healthy, rich soil, and use wide spacing. During the growing season, improve air circulation around the plants by keeping the area weed-free, and avoid over-head watering and excessive fertilization.

Monitor your plants throughout the summer for infection. If you notice any spotting or curling of the foliage, or circular white patches on the leaves, remove the leaves or plant. At this time, start applying preventative fungicide sprays every 2 weeks. Examples include neem oil and sulfur. Research has shown that a combination of baking soda and horticultural oil can prevent infection (1 tbs. baking soda and 2.5 tbs. oil in one gallon of water).

What is killing the aspen trees in our forests?

marion.murray@usu.edu (Marion Murray) — Thu, 22 Feb 2007 00:00:00 MST

This is an excellent question and one that researchers are still trying to answer. It is estimated conservatively that about 10% of the aspen trees are dying or in decline—a number that is staggering and a cause for concern. And this is not just Utah, but all areas where aspen grows: from Arizona to Colorado to Alberta, Canada. The fact that aspen regenerate primarily through suckers rather than seed is exacerbating the problem. Aspen, as a species, is not very genetically diverse, with large stands of a single clone. Lack of genetic diversity means that there is less of a chance that a tree will be resistant to whatever is causing the decline. In addition, as the “parent trees” are weakened by this disease complex, their root systems are unable to send up new shoots. Good news is that preliminary research has shown that aspen may be more genetically diverse than originally suspected.

Researchers admit that there is certainly no one causal factor in the aspen decline. Many theories have been raised, including several years of drought combined with heat, cytospora canker, and poplar borer. Over-browsing by elk and cattle may also be a contributing factor. Another theory is based on our land use history. Widespread timber harvesting and wildfires in the late 1800s and early 1900s allowed aspen—which is a colonizer and depends upon disturbance—to grow in wider swaths than ever before. The reduction in landscape disturbance starting in the 1920s, including fire suppression, is simply causing natural succession to speed up, and hence a decline in early-successional species such as aspen.

As research continues, forest managers will certainly adapt their practices to allow for restoration of the aspen—a tree species that symbolizes the “wild west.”

Why are the needles on my spruce tree turning brown and dropping?

marion.murray@usu.edu (Marion Murray) — Thu, 22 Feb 2007 00:00:00 MST

In the fall, evergreen trees will shed their inner-most needles. This may look alarming, but it is a natural process. Those inner needles have become shaded out and are no longer a productive part of the tree. If you are seeing more than just the inner needles dropping, or there is a larger than normal amount of shedding, another issue may be at hand.

In Utah, there are very few infectious diseases that will attack spruce. The climate is so arid that most conifers do not naturally grow here. When we plant evergreens such as spruce outside their native habitat, they may not be able to adapt. A lack of water, heat, and soil conditions are the most likely causes of needle browning and drop. Conversely, too much water can also cause chlorosis (yellowing) and needle drop. Both drought and over-watering can kill the tree’s feeder roots, which in turn results in a loss of foliage.

To keep your spruce healthy, proper watering is imperative. Provide deep watering at long intervals throughout the summer (every two weeks) rather than shallow watering at short intervals. In particular, provide a good watering before the ground freezes and again in winter if it thaws and dries out. Remove sod from the base of the tree out to the branch edge, and cover the area with mulch.

What is killing my lawn? It was fine in the spring, and now this summer, it is looking dead in patchy spots.

marion.murray@usu.edu (Marion Murray) — Thu, 22 Feb 2007 00:00:00 MST

There are several diseases that could be affecting your lawn during the hot summer months. Brown patch (Rhizoctonia) causes irregular brown patches on the lawn. Fading (Curvularia sp.) also causes irregular dead areas. Both of these diseases can spread rapidly during high temperatures, especially when turf is stressed. Brown patch can infect the entire plant if conditions are suitable or can cause a crown and root rot. Both pathogens survive on dead leaf blades and debris that reside in the thatch layer of the lawn.

The best way to manage both diseases is to improve the health of your soil and turf. When mowing during the hot summer months, keep the grass height at 2 ½" to 3" to alleviate stress. Remove clippings to reduce sporulation on decayed leaves, and mow to a shorter height at your last mow in the fall, when the grass has stopped growing. Fertilize only in the fall.

An excessive thatch layer can contribute to disease development. Thatch should be kept at ½ ″ thickness so that water and air can penetrate to the roots. Aeration can improve air circulation to the root system. Be sure to use an aerator that takes soil cores out of your lawn. The machines that punch holes in your lawn only increase compaction. This should be done in the spring or fall when the weather is cool and provides a less stressful environment for your turf to recuperate.

Proper watering is very important. Ideally, water your lawn deeply about once/week when natural rainfall does not occur. Apply the water in the morning to allow the leaf blades to dry quickly. This reduces the moisture available for the fungus to develop and allows for better moisture retention in the soil. Infrequent and deep watering promotes root growth which supports the crown and leaves.

My pear tree has dead stems that curl downward. What is happening?

marion.murray@usu.edu (Marion Murray) — Thu, 22 Feb 2007 00:00:00 MST

Your pear tree possibly has a bacterial disease called fire blight. Fire blight is one of the most destructive diseases of apple and pear trees. Cool wet springs are the ideal conditions for this pathogen to spread. Fire blight primarily infects blossoms in spring time, and is spread primarily by insects but also by wind and rain. Spring symptoms include blackening on leaves, petioles and stems. The summer symptom that you see show up as dead brown foliage on entire branches, with the tips curving downward forming a shephard’s hook. Eventually, the pathogen moves down into the branch and forms cankers, which are sunken, dead areas of bark. Bacteria can sometimes be seen oozing out of a canker, especially in spring.

Homeowners can manage this disease using cultural practices. In winter or early spring, prune out all dead wood and remove it from your property. Prune out infections 8-12 inches below the diseased tissue and sterilize your pruning equipment between each cut with a 10% bleach solution or alcohol. In spring, scout for symptoms and prune out infected twigs and flowers as early as possible. If necessary, apply a copper spray when at ½” green tip. Follow the application guidelines on the pesticide label.

What fall gardening tasks will help reduce plant pests next year?

dianea@biology.usu.edu (Diane Alston) — Thu, 14 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

Many plant-feeding insects and mites seek out protected sites to spend the winter. Among this group of pests seeking a cozy spot in your yard are squash bugs, Mexican bean beetles, earwigs, strawberry root weevils, and spider mites. You can take action now to get a jump-start on pest management for the next gardening season. Here are some things you can do:

Remove any herbaceous (annual) plant material at the end of the season. Do not leave old vines, plants, and annual flowers in debris piles. Compost or dispose of the plant material as soon as possible. The longer you leave the debris around, the longer many pests have to find a comfortable place to spend the fall and winter.
Rototill your garden soil in the fall. This destroys many pests that can overwinter there by bringing them to the surface where they will freeze or dessicate.
Plant a fall and winter cover crop such as annual ryegrass. The cover crop helps reduce weeds, retain soil moisture, and add nutrients to the soil.
In the late winter to early spring, prune diseased and dead limbs from woody shrubs and trees. Wait until the woody plants have hardened off for the winter before pruning. Fall pruning may predispose plants to winter injury.
Protect shrubs and other plants with winter-sensitive roots and crowns, such as rose, blackberry and grape. Place leaves, grass clippings or other type of mulch around the base. Winter injury will cause stress and reduced growth for cold susceptible plants next spring. This in turn tends to make these plants more prone to attack by pests.
Continue to water your perennial plants through the fall. Although their growth is slowing and less water is needed, a water-stressed plant is more vulnerable to winter injury.
Plan now for next year by keeping a record of garden plants and cultivars you liked best, those with the fewest problems, and pest problems that should be addressed next spring with dormant oil sprays (such as aphids, scale, pear psylla and red mites).

What is West Nile Virus and how can I keep myself safe from it?

erin@biology.usu.edu (Erin Hodgson) — Thu, 14 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

West Nile Virus was first detected in North America in 1999 and was detected in Utah in 2003. West Nile Virus is transmitted by female mosquitoes while taking a blood meal required to lay eggs. Horses, humans and some birds (particularly crows, ravens and jays) are most sensitive to developing West Nile Virus symptoms when compared to other mammals.

Approximately 80 percent of people infected with West Nile Virus never show symptoms. Most people’s immune systems are healthy enough to fight infection. Up to 20 percent of those bitten will develop West Nile Fever and display symptoms similar to the flu. Symptoms last a few days and are treated with fluids and rest. About one in 150 people infected will become seriously ill and require hospitalization. People over 50 or those with compromised immune systems are at higher risk to develop more serious complications from West Nile Virus.

Consider these tips to protect yourself.

Wear appropriate clothing. Long-sleeved shirts and pants make it more difficult for mosquitoes to pierce your skin and transmit disease while feeding.
Stay indoors during peak flight activity. Mosquitoes that transmit West Nile Virus are most actively feeding from dusk through dawn.
Protect yourself with repellent. DEETis an effective mosquito repellent available in several concentrations. Products containing DEET have a relatively low risk to humans and the environment. DEET can be applied to the skin, but should not be applied directly to the face. Children should use DEET sparingly because of eye and mucous irritations. Picaridinis an alternative for people with sensitivities to DEET-based products. It is effective, almost odorless and can be applied directly to the skin. BioUD is sold commercially as Bite Blocker® and is derived from plants. Bite Blocker can be applied to the skin and has no child restrictions. Unlike DEET, BioUD will not melt plastic and is not flammable. Permethrinis a highly effective repellent, and products containing permethrin can be applied to clothing, shoes and camping gear. Oil of eucalyptusis a plant-based repellent and is about as effective as applying low concentrations of DEET.
Eliminate standing water. Because mosquito eggs are deposited in standing water, anything you do to reduce breeding sites will decrease the number of adult mosquitoes. This includes improving landscaping to minimize pooling water in ditches and other low spots in the yard.
Keep containers clean and dry. Empty and clean watering cans, flower pots or other potential sources of standing water when they are not in use. Drill holes to allow drainage. Garbage cans and recycling bins can hold rain water for days.
Maintain pools with fresh water. Frequently change the water around the property, including fish or ornamental ponds, bird baths and pet bowls.
Properly chlorinate swimming pools and hot tubs to discourage female mosquitoes from laying eggs.
Prevent mosquitoes from entering the home. Keep windows and doors closed, repair torn screens, insulate window fans or air conditioners and close fireplaces when not in use.

I am wondering if I have some sort of fungus in my lawn.

nancym@ext.usu.edu (Nancy Mesner) — Tue, 12 Sep 2006 00:00:00 MST

"I am wondering if I have some sort of fungus in my lawn. I have a lot of spots that appear to be brown or dry. My wife has been putting more watering these spots for the last couple of weeks and they are not greening up. Do you have and suggestions?"

What you are describing sounds like heat and drought stress. However, if you have increased the watering to those areas without improvement, it is probably something else. One possibility is a disease, usually caused by some type of fungus. Often, treating with fungicides is very expensive and you can be just as effective by managing the grass to keep it healthy. Consult the Utah State University Extension Publication HG-517, Basic Turfgrass Care. You can access it online at:
http://web2.ad.ext.usu.edu/htm/publications/publication=5793

Another possibility is insect damage. This time of year you could be seeing sod webworm damage, grub damage, or billbug damage. If you have noticed some small, white moths flying around as you walk across the lawn, it indicates sod web worm damage. If the grass can be pulled up and rolled back like a carpet, it indicates grub damage. If you tug on the grass and the blades pull out very easily, it indicates billbug damage. I would recommend consulting the Utah State University Extension Agent in your county for suggestions on treating your lawn for these insects. As with disease, you can also be very effective in controlling the damage by managing the grass to keep it healthy.