COOP - Extension FAQs

We have a 9 acre cabin site in the conifers near Soldiers Summit at 8400 ft. In recent update on google earth I noted new blighted red area in tree tops. Who are professional applicators or can land owner administer insecticide? Arborjet recommends several treatments see www.arborjet.com/problems-solutions/pine-bark-beetle.htm

2008-04-14T04:36:00Z

I suppose my experience in forestry is why I was forwarded your question about conifers on 9 acres near Soldiers Summit. From Utah Division of Forestry, Fire & State Lands Forest Health 2003 report, Mixed conifer forests occur at elevations from about 8,000 to 10,000 feet. Douglas-fir, white fir, and lodgepole pine are the main tree species in this type. Spruce, subalpine fir, and ponderosa pine may also be a component of mixed conifer forests. Species diversity in this habitat type contributes to wildlife habitat diversity.

Bark Beetle Impacts

In a healthy forest, endemic levels of insects and diseases serve to remove weakened and stressed trees, thus thinning the forest and reducing competition for light, water, and nutrients. Overly dense forests composed primarily of larger diameter mature trees are less vigorous. Such sites are preferred by many species of bark beetles, which contributes to outbreaks. Large-scale insect outbreaks often result in an accumulation of down woody debris,which can increase fire intensity.

Before spraying, it is of utmost importance to have proper diagnosis of tree health. We have been in a drought for 7-8 years in the last 10 years, so browning of needles does not necessarily mean there is a pest issue. Granted due to drought stress, trees do become more susceptible to secondary health issues like beetle infestation or plant diseases. Here are a couple links to Utah Division of Forestry, Fire & State Lands information on bark beetles in Utah.

Ips Bark Beetle

http://www.ffsl.utah.gov/foresthealth/insectdisease/IpsengraverBeetle.pdf

Mountain Pine Beetle

http://www.ffsl.utah.gov/foresthealth/insectdisease/Mountainpinebeetle.pdf

There are recommendations on the fact sheet, again only after a proper diagnosis from a forester or arborist to confirm.

Box Elder bugs have emerged already and are breeding. They get into the house and crawl all over the west facing exterior house wallsand are all over the vegetable garden beds. How do I erradicate them?

2008-04-14T04:36:00Z

Boxelder Bug Management.

Please read over our fact sheet for more information . In general, they are very difficult (if not impossible) to eradicate. Boxelder bugs are considered nuisance pests, but sometimes they can damage fruit. Mostly they accidentally move into homes for warmth during the winter and that’s when they really become a bother.

When is the proper time for me to spray for worms on my Bing Cherry Tree? What do I use?

2008-04-02T04:36:00Z

To control the worms in cherries there are a few techniques to determine when to spray. The first is based on fruit color. The small Western Cherry Fruit fly cannot effectively insert an egg into the fruit until it starts to change color from straw-color to a rose blush. Utah State University traps and monitors orchard pests throughout the growing season. Updates regarding determining spray time along with products can be found on the USU Extension website: http://www.utahpests.usu.edu. Some common products include; Spinosad, permethrin, carbaryl, and malathion. Be sure to always follow the label instructions when using chemicals.

I have an infestation of red ants in my retaining wall area where I also have plants. What is the best way to get rid of the red ants so I can weed etc. in that area?

2008-03-31T04:36:00Z

The answer to this question is not so straight forward, and really depends on the type of ant. Some ants have more than one queen, one or many satellite colonies, create new colonies by various methods, while some are of concern and others are not.

You can see that if a colony has more than one queen or many satellite colonies it might take more than a soil drench to
kill off the ants. It would be ideal to have some samples of worker ants sent in for me to identify so we can properly treat the ants. And, by the way, just because these ants are red doesn't mean that they are imported red fire ants, we do not have those in Utah; a lot of ants are small and red.

If you are looking for a quick fix you can try to use pesticide ant baits. Because ants share food within the nest, they will spread the pesticide around to each other (and hopefully 1 or all queens). These are not fast-acting because they are purposefully formulated to take a while to kill giving the ants time to pass it around the nest. That said, depending on the ant species baits may not be effective. A soil drench of something like ALLECTUS G INSECTICIDE which will target adult ants AND larvae might work, but the whole subterranean colony would have to be soaked. Spraying worker ants will do nothing to alleviate the problem. The queen(s), eggs and larvae must be killed. If main colonies are treated and satellite colonies exist, then the area will become re-infested.

In summary, I really need to ID the ants before a management strategy can be formulated.

This is probably not the answer you were looking for, but ants are difficult to control when you know which species you are treating, let alone having no idea. If you can get samples to send in it would really help. (collecting as many ants as you can would be best). And be careful...some ants sting, some bite, some bite and spray formic acid on the wound and some do nothing.

Can you please give me an idea of when I need to spray my fruit trees (I have one each of nectarine, peach, apricot, apple and cherry).Can you let me know when, based on the weather in Cache county? What is the name of the best spray to use?

2008-03-19T04:36:00Z

Unfortunately there is not a magic spray that can be sprayed on all fruit trees, with the exception of dormant oil. This should be sprayed within the next couple of weeks to help control aphids, scale, and other pest and some diseases. Do not apply it once trees have leafed out or you have had problems with shothole fungus (Coryneum Blight) that also needs to be treated with an appropriate fungicide. Captan is labeled for this. The following hyperlink will lead to a Website that provides info on when to spray or trap insect pests http://utahpests.usu.edu/ipm/htm/advisories/treefruit. You may subscribe to the Website for regular updates on current insect and disease sightings and outbreak predictions, and highlights upcoming concerns for tree fruit growers. A traditional pesticide good for controlling coddling moth on apples is Sevin (carbaryl). For trees such as cherries and peaches Malathion can be used if needed. Consider using alternatives more sustainable to these including traps and baits. The Utah plant pest diagnostic lab has more specific info on this http://utahpests.usu.edu/.

I have two new flowering pear trees that are being used as breakfast, lunch and dinner. I am not sure what is eating them the leaves have large scallops taken out of them. The lower branches have been affected more than the top ones. Any ideas?

2007-10-15T04:36:00Z

Without actually seeing the damage to your leaves it is difficult to give you an accurate diagnosis of what is happening. By your description there may be two different types of insects causing the notches in your pear tree leaves. Properly identifying what is causing the damage can help you decide on what control methods to use.

The first type of insect that causes damage like you described is a root weevil. Two common varieties that could be damaging your pear trees are Lilac Root Weevil (Otiorhynchus meridionalis) and Strawberry Root Weevil (Otiorhynchus ovatus). These insects are particularly hard to find on your plants because the adults hide during the day, only feeding at night and the larvae live in the root zone of the plant feeding on the tissues there. Because they can be difficult to find you could create a trap by placing a fold of burlap around the base of the tree or by burying a paper cup at soil level. This will allow you to collect a specimen. If it is root weevils a non-chemical method of control would be the use of commercial sticky traps placed in a protected area either in or near the tree. If you choose to use a chemical insecticide use one that is a Pyrethroid. The following link has more information on root weevils http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05551.html

The second type of insect that may be causing the damage is Leafcutter bees. They are a native species of pollinators that use the portion of the leaf that they have notched out in rearing their young. These insects are not pests and control practices are not recommended because they are very beneficial in helping to pollinate our crops and ornamental plants.

By following this link you can see pictures that show what typical damage of both Root Weevil and Leafcutter Bees looks like.

http://utahpests.usu.edu/ipm/files/uploads/HortAdvisories/2007/Hort-IPM-06-27-07.pdf

To help provide you with a better diagnosis of what is happening to your pear tree leaves you can bring a sample into the USU Extension Office located at 2001 S. State Street for identification. Our office hours are Monday through Friday 8:00 am to 5:00 pm.

Precautionary Statement: All pesticides have benefits and risks, however following the label will maximize the benefits and reduce risks. Pay attention to the directions for use and follow precautionary statements. Pesticide labels are considered legal documents containing instructions and limitations. Inconsistent use of the product or disregarding the label is a violation of both federal and state laws. The pesticide applicator is legally responsible for proper use.

I have rings in my lawn that are about two feet wide. I suspect they are fairy ring, but the description for fairy ring doesn't quite fit. The inside of the circle is not lush and green, it looks the same as the rest of the lawn. There is just a semi-dead cirle surrounding good lawn. Do you have any help for me.

2007-10-12T04:36:00Z

Without actually seeing your lawn it is difficult to give you an accurate diagnosis of your problem. There are several reasons that your lawn may have brown spots or rings. The most common culprit is water. If you have a sprinkler head that is blocked, missing, or broken it can cause some parts of your lawn to become brown. A check of your sprinkler system can help you to identify if this is the problem. You can find a once a month sprinkler system checklist at http://www.conservewater.utah.gov/OutdoorUse/MaintenanceCheck.htm.

Another reason you may be seeing brown rings in your lawn may be insect related. Before applying any pesticides it is very important to identify what kind of insect it is. The best way to diagnose an insect problem is to check the lawn. Insects typically feed on the edges of the brown spots. If you do find an insect but are unsure of what kind of insect it is the Utah Pests Webpage http://utahpests.usu.edu/ has a lot of information including pictures. You can also bring a sample of the insect into the USU Extension Office located at 2001 S. State Street for identification. Our office hours are Monday through Friday 8:00 am to 5:00 pm.

A third reason may be a fungal disease. There are two different diseases that match your description. The first is Necrotic Ring Spot. This is a cool season disease that shows up March through May and September through November. This particular disease is very common in 2 to 5 year old bluegrass lawns that have been established from sod. It shows up as dead circles or arches of browning lawn that range in size from a few inches to a few feet that are surrounded by a patch of green lawn that gives a donut appearance. The second disease is called Summer Patch. It has very similar symptoms as Necrotic Ring Spot. It becomes evident May through September. Some recommendations in treatment for fungal diseases are:

1) Control thatch buildup with regular core aeration at least once a year.
2) Water less frequently but to greater depth. The soil should be moistened 8 – 10 inches deep.
3) Remove layers of leaves from lawn during winter.

You can learn more about these turf diseases at http://utahpests.usu.edu/plantdiseases/htm/turf/turfdiseases.

To help provide you with a better diagnosis of what is happening in your lawn and a better treatment plan you can bring a sample into the USU Extension Office. To take your sample, dig a 4- to 6-inch chunk of lawn (including the soil) on the margin of a brown spot. Include a section with both living and dead turf.

When is the proper time to apply dormant spray? And If I use dormant spray do I still need to spray later in the season. I have apples, pears, peaches, apricots. Also will dormant spray help with the Japanese beetle?

2007-10-11T04:36:00Z

The spray that is
applied to the fruit trees is actually a "Delayed Dormant Oil." We have
a sheet in the office that shows at what bud stage to apply the delayed
dormant oil. It has pictures of each of the types of fruits trees and
shows the right time to apply it. If you send me your address, I will
be happy to send you a copy.

For general information:
The delayed dormant oil is a wonderful step in Integrated Pest
Management. It will kill both the eggs and adults of aphids, mites,
peach twig borer, pear psylla, scale insects and leafrollers before
they can cause problems. They also can't get resistance to it- they
can't say "this time I'll smother, next time I won't."

Apples: apply the delayed dormant spray at first sign of green on
bud tips to ½" green stage (about 2-3 weeks before bloom)
for coddling moth, apply the delayed dormant spray
starting 10 days after petal fall. Reapply sprays based on protection
interval through the first week of

September

Pears: for coddling moth, apply the delayed dormant spray starting
10 days after petal fall. Reapply sprays based on protection interval
through the first week of
September

Peaches, Nectarines, and Plums- apply the delayed dormant oil from
first bud swell to first pink (peach) or green tip (plum)

Cherries: apply delayed dormant spray at bud swell to green tip

Apricots: apply delayed dormant spray from separation of bud scales to
first sign of white in bud tips

There is an excellent booklet that we sell at the office that you can
access for free online. It is called the Home Orchard Pest Management
Guide. It is published by Utah State University. To view this
information, go to:

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/HomeOrchardGuide2004.pdf

You can use "horticulture oil" or "volck" oil. The difference between
the spring delayed dormant oil, and the fall dormant spray, is the
amount of oil used. The directtions should be on the label for both
formulations.

Our 4 year old peach tree is blossoming and we noticed a "web" full of caterpillars in one of the branch forks. Several of the 1/2 to 3/4 inch larvae were on other branches as well. EEWWW! What do I do?

2007-10-05T04:36:00Z

I suspect you are seeing the boxelder leafroller, but you would need to bring some to your county Extension office to have a proper diagnosis and identification.

Read about the boxelder leafroller by downloading the USU Extension publication "Boxelder Leafroller", from http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/29.pdf

We have scrub oak in our back yard. Almost overnight we have thousands of little green worms that have made webs over the leaves of the trees and are eating every green leaf in sight! Help! What do we do???

2007-10-05T04:36:00Z

I suspect you are seeing the boxelder leafroller, but you would need to bring some to your county Extension office to have a proper diagnosis and identification.

Read about the boxelder leafroller by downloading the USU Extension publication "Boxelder Leafroller", from http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/29.pdf

How do I get rid of squash bug?

2007-10-04T04:36:00Z

Squash bugs are very difficult to control. Insecticides are not very effective, but if insecticides are used they work best against the very young nymphs.

* If you plan to use insecticides, sprays should be applied when small nymphs are present, which generally occurs early in the season.
* Before spraying, check plants carefully to make certain that small nymphs are present. Squash bugs hide on the underside of leaves or down near the base of the plant.
* Nonchemical methods of control are usually as effective as insecticides. Serious attack by squash bugs can be avoided by planting sensitive varieties early so harvest is complete by early August.
* Once harvest is complete, remove the squash plants from garden. Plants left in the garden allow the bugs to build up to higher numbers, which will lead to greater problems the following year.
* Plant varieties of squash that are less sensitive to the bugs. Zucchini seems to be the variety most sensitive to attack by squash bugs. Other summer varieties and most winter varieties seem better able to tolerate feeding by squash bugs.
* Squash bugs are active during the day. At night the bugs hide under boards or other objects. This behavior can be used against them in small scale plantings such as gardens. Place boards near the plants (between rows or around the garden edge) and early every morning turn them over and squish all the bugs you find.
* Squash bugs also seek out sites like wood piles or sheds to spend the winter. Large numbers of bugs overwintering in these sites can lead to high numbers of bugs in your garden the following year.

We have a horrible locust infestation, which I can't find any news about - all of the scrub oak are defoliated. Is this common? Will the trees recover- new leaves this year? I have found them on fruit trees and washed them off - are they just passing through? Any other info on them?

2007-09-05T04:36:00Z

The insect infesting Gamble oak and other trees in northern Utah is the cankerworm. The caterpillars can defoliate the trees when they occur in high numbers such as this year. Most healthy, nonstressed trees will produce a new crop of leaves when the caterpillars have completed their development. For trees in your yard you can spray them with a bacterial insecticide that is specific for caterpillars and nontoxic to mammals.
Products available include those with the active ingedient Bacillus thuringiensis (Dipel, Thuricide, others) and spinosad (Success, Entrust, Conserve). Thorough cov erage of leaves is important because the caterpillars must ingest the insecticide for activity.

I want to get rid of spiders inside my house. What do you recommend I spray inside and outside with?

2007-08-21T04:36:00Z

I would recommend against spraying any insecticide inside your home. Instead, keep the corners vacuumed or swept so that spiders will know it's not a good place to hang around. You can put some sticky traps in closets or corners where pets or kids won't get into them. This will catch a lot of wandering spiders.

I have tall thin Junipers in my backyard. They resemble a Hollywood Juniper but I am not sure of their species. They are 25 years old and have begun to look like they are dying, the needles are turning brown and falling off. Is there anything I can do to save them?

2007-08-15T04:36:00Z

Junipers are some of our most hardy landscape plants, but can develop problems when the weather is very hot (such as it has been this summer!) I suspect your junipers need more water. They are mature trees now,
and their root systems are probably quite extensive. Realize that they may have extended their roots outwards at least 25 feet (same as their height).So, if you have be watering only as much as usual, and these trees are
surrounded by lawn, they are probably heat stressed and need more water.

I usually recommend watering trees extra during the hot summer months, making sure to deliver the water over most of the root zone, applying the water slowly enough so that the soil is wet 12 to 18 inches deep. This deeper soil moisture will be available to the trees but not to the lawn grass, so you can be sure that the trees will be able to take it up. Soaker hoses are great for this purpose, since they emit water very slowly and the water can percolate down into the soil without running off down grade.

When junipers are stressed, they are very attractive to spidermites. You can check for spider mites by holding a white piece of paper under a branch, striking the branch sharply, and catching the "dust" onto the paper. Watch the dust a moment. If pieces of "dust" start crawling around, the tree is infested with spider mites. To control spider mites without significantly harming the beneficial mites and insects that prey on them, try spraying the trees with a sharp stream of water every few days. This, plus the extra water you will provide, will probably help the trees regain their vigor. A shot of nitrogen fertilizer over their root zone would probably help, too. Apply the fertilizer before doing the deep watering so that it reaches the deeper tree roots (and won't be "stolen" by the lawn grass).

I have a peach tree that I want to save - it's almost completely dead because of borers. There are some healthy branches on it still, and I'm wondering about the possibility of grafting some of this stock onto another peach tree I have. Where can I find out how to do this?

2007-08-03T04:36:00Z

Success in grafting depends on tissue compatibility, good technique, appropriate timing, and luck. You need luck for the elements out of your control - the weather is one example.

Scion wood - the cuttings of the tree you want to save - should be taken from the tree during dormancy. Although you could take cuttings as early as December, it's usually better to wait until about February (unless we have had an unusually mild late winter and tree buds are already swelling). The longer you wait to take the cuttings, the shorter time the cuttings will need to be stored. Storage opens opportunities for mold, rot, desiccation, and other accidental damage. Graft the scion onto the new tree in spring when bark just starts to "slip" - this is when the tree is coming out of dormancy. Usually, this is around late March, but every year is different. Staggering some of your grafts time-wise may help you catch the "just right" time and weather conditions. This spring would have been challenging for grafting, because of the early heat, late frost, and subsequent heat again. When weather is mild, there is a better chance that the graft will "take" since there will be less stress on the tree.

Here are some links to good online publications or downloadable publications about grafting:

http://www.ext.nodak.edu/county/cass/horticulture/fruit/graft.htm

http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/ho/ho39/ho39.pdf

I found a spider in my garden among some weeds that matches the description of a black widow except it has three distinct white dots on its back.

2007-08-01T04:36:00Z

I have checked with a spider specialist in my department, Dr. James Pitts, and he says:

It could be a juvenile black widow. They sometimes have various markings (yellow, red or white) on the dorsum of the abdomen.

The dorsum is the upper side or back of an animal. So you may have found a juvenile black widow. Here is a link to a USU Extension fact sheet on spiders:

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/30.pdf

Since the spider is in your garden, I would advise avoiding its home (web) or removing it.

My front yard has large patches of dead grass. Originally I thought it might be a result of grubs, but dug down and didn't see any larvae or grub worms. The condition is worsening and now I've noticed pencil-eraser size holes throughout the dry areas. Do you know what this is and how to prevent or stop it?

2007-08-01T04:36:00Z

I suspect the holes you see in the dry areas may be made by emerging lawn pests, such as billbug, but I'm not sure. The holes may also be from bird beaks as they forage for insects (yay, birds!) Here are some hints on how to scout and diagnose for billbugs and other lawn pests: Dig up a 6 by 6 inch square of your turfgrass, including 2 inches of soil, put it in a bucket and pull it apart, looking for any insects or larvae. Collect any/all you find. Identify the insects by referring to these USU Extension Fact Sheets:
Billbugs, at
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/ENT-106-07.pdf
White grubs, at
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/ENT-104-07.pdf
Sod webworm, at
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/ENT-44-07.pdf
Cranberry girdler, at
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/ENT-42-07.pdf

There's only one generation of billbug per year, they may be emerging as adults about now. Most of the damage is already done for the year, so if you don't find any pests in the turf sample, wait until next May to treat for the pests. Once summer cools off (highs in the 80's), you should fertilize the affected areas to promote new growth and vigor, to repair the damage. Also, be sure to check the thickness of the thatch layer in your turf. If it's thicker than one-half inch, plan to have your lawn core aerated in early fall. Aeration helps promote thatch decomposition. Thatch is a protective habitat for the billbug, so it's best to minimize it.

Our grass is dying and we suspect a worm/grub problem since we have seen some yellowish worms come up when we have raked the thatch layer. When is the best time to treat to kill the worms? What is best to kill them if we don't know exactly what species they are? How long after treatment can we prepare and plant new grass seed?

2007-08-01T04:36:00Z

You may be seeing larvae of lawn pests, most probably billbug. Here are some hints on how to scout and diagnose for billbugs and other lawn pests: Dig up a 6 by 6 inch square of your turfgrass, including 2 inches of soil. Put it in a bucket and pull it apart, looking for any insects or larvae. Collect any/all you find. Identify the insects by referring to these USU Extension FactSheets: Billbugs, at

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/ENT-106-07.pdf

White grubs, at

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/ENT-104-07.pdf

Sod webworm, at

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/ENT-44-07.pdf

Cranberry girdler, at

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/ENT-42-07.pdf

There's only one generation of billbug per year. They may be emerging as adults about now. Most of the damage is already done for the year, so if you don't find any pests in the turf sample, wait until next May to treat for the pests. Once summer cools off (highs in the 80's), you should fertilize the affected areas to promote new growth and vigor, to repair the damage. Also, be sure to check the thickness of the thatch layer in your turf. If it's thicker than one-half inch, plan to have your lawn core aerated in early fall. Aeration helps promote thatch decomposition. Thatch is a protective habitat for the billbug, so it's best to minimize it.

I have a lot of earwigs and spiders in my garden and flower beds. How can I kill them off without making my bed unsafe to plant vegetables in the future?

2007-08-01T04:36:00Z

Don't kill spiders, they are a gardener's best friend. Spiders eat plant pests.

Earwigs, on the other hand, eat about anything, including flower petals, leaves, other insects, and dead plant material. Earwigs are hard to control with insecticides. You can discourage earwigs by allowing the soil surface to dry out a few days between watering. But if you use mulch (and you should), they may be able to hide out there successfully.

You can trap earwigs in folds of moist newspaper - they will hide there during the daytime. Put the trap out in the evening, then go collect it in the morning about 10AM - and stuff it into a Ziploc bag so they cannot escape. Leave the bag out in the sun all day and they will be cooked to death. Then you can empty the bag into the garbage and re-use it. You can also trap earwigs in sticky traps, but it's rather messy. Here's a link to more info about earwigs:

http://www.usu.edu/ust/index.cfm?article=8717

How can I protect my raspberries from insect pests?

2007-06-20T04:36:00Z

Just as berry fruits approach maturity and are ready to pick, there are fruit-eating insects that can reduce the harvestable crop and contaminate the berry product. Some of the common fruit-eating insects observed in Utah include the stink bug, lygus bug, earwig, grasshopper, and several species of fruit-eating wasps. These insects suck or chew into the individual drupelets or may remove the entire fruits. Frequent inspections of ripening fruits (several times per week) by physically shaking the canes to dislodge insects onto a cloth or plastic tray can provide early-warning and help prevent fruit-eating insects from causing economic yield loss. If damaging insects are detected, the most common method of management is insecticide application. It is very important to carefully observe the pre-harvest or required time interval between application and picking fruits. Pre-harvest intervals are listed on product labels. Recommended insecticides that have low toxicity to humans include neem oil (Azatin) and spinosad (Success, Entrust). Conventional insecticides that will deter fruit-feeders include carbaryl (Sevin), malathion, permethrin, and esfenvalerate.

The consperse stink bug (Euschistus conspersus) and green stink bug (Acrosternum hilare) are large (1/2 to 5/8 inch long), brown or bright green bugs with a shield-shaped, flattened body. They feed on individual drupelets causing them to shrivel. Stink bugs release a bad odor and contaminate the berries at harvest. Lygus bug (Lygus hesperus) are small (1/4 inch long), green and brown bugs that are attracted to flowers and developing fruit. They cause misshapen fruit similar to stink bug by feeding on individual drupelets. They are usually present at low density and do not cause economic damage to raspberries.

The European earwig (Forficula auricularia) is ½ to 3/4 inches long, shiny brown, and with a pair of forceps-like claspers at the tip of the abdomen. They are nocturnal and their presence or damage may go unnoticed until harvest. Earwigs feed on fruit and foliage. Foliage feeding is of little concern. Management requires the removal of daytime harboring sites and prevention of access to fruit before it ripens. Remove weeds from around the base of canes and vines. Keep rows clear of prunings and debris under which earwigs could nest. Earwigs can be trapped by using Tanglefoot® or a similar adhesive material applied to the base of canes to prevent their crawling into plants. To monitor for earwigs, place boards or rolled-up newspapers in the fields in spring and monitor weekly for earwigs that hide under the boards or in newspapers. Treat the ground and lower canes with carbaryl at the beginning of spring activity when earwigs are found.

In areas where berry fields are situated near open rangeland or undeveloped land, grasshoppers may move onto canes near harvest to feed on fruits and leaves. Fruit-protecting insecticide treatments described above may be effective. Placement of insecticide bait (bran coated with carbaryl or Nosema locustae, a protozoan biological control) around field borders when young grasshopper nymphs are first observed may also reduce grasshopper populations. Repeat applications of bait will likely be required to cover several months of grasshopper activity and to replenish baits after rainfall or irrigation events. Insecticide baits are not effective at killing adult grasshoppers.

Two types of wasps are common berry-eaters: the yellow jacket (Vespula germanica) and European paper wasp (Polistes dominulus). They may also be a nuisance to workers by stinging them. Yellow jackets nest in the ground. If ground nests are detected, they can be treated with conventional insecticides, dug up and removed to destroy them. Also, placing commercial traps that contain heptyl butyrate bait at the perimeter of berry fields can reduce wasp numbers. The European paper wasp builds umbrella-shaped nests under the eaves of buildings and other protected sites. Paper wasps are not attracted to yellow jacket traps. Removal of nests and protection of fruit near harvest with one of the insecticides mentioned above may provide some control.