Integrated Pest Management - Tree Fruit IPM Advisory

Codling Moth Spray Timings

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 MST

codling moth spray timings

Codling Moth, Fire Blight, Woolly Apple Aphid

Fri, 10 May 2013 00:00:00 MST

new codling moth spray dates, fire blight, rosy apple aphid, woolly apple aphid, green peach aphid, thrips, coryneum blight

Assessing Frost Injury

Thu, 18 Apr 2013 00:00:00 MST

pdf version

April 18, 2012

In this Issue:

Information on Dormant Sprays
Bud Stages
- County Bud Stage Information
The Buzz on Copper Sprays
Production Information
- Assessing Frost or Winter Injury

What to Look for/Do Now:

Aphids (top right) and other insects like leafrollers (bottom right) are active now. If you applied a dormant spray, check the buds and leaves for any insect activity to see if your treatment was effective.
Production information: “Assessing Frost Injury,” below

Information on Dormant Sprays

There is still time to apply your dormant spray, depending on the bud stage of your trees.

Follow these guidelines:

Apples: swollen bud - 1/2” green
Pears: swollen bud - cluster bud
Peaches/Nectarines: swollen bud - pre-bloom
Apricot: before bloom

See the April 5 edition for more information.

Bud Stages

The cooler weather to come will slow down bud development. For images of bud stages, click here for a pdf fact sheet.

Davis County, Box Elder County, Salt Lake County:

Apples: green tip - half inch green
Apricots: full bloom
Sweet cherries: white bud
Peaches: pink - first bloom
Pears: bud burst
Tart cherries: swollen bud

Cache County:

Apples: silver tip
Tart cherries: swollen bud
Peaches: quarter inch green
Pears: swollen bud

Utah County:

Apples: green tip - half inch green
Apricot: first bloom - full bloom
Sweet cherries: white bud
Peaches: pink
Pears: bud burst - tight cluster
Tart cherries: swollen bud

Weber County:

Apples: green tip
Apricot: bloom
Sweet cherries: white bud
Peaches: pink
Pears: bud burst
Tart cherries: swollen bud

The Buzz on Copper Sprays

Copper is primarily used on apple trees to help control fire blight. There has been recent research that shows that copper applied at green tip stage is very helpful in managing this disease. Copper may also be helpful for bacterial canker on sweet cherries, a disease we saw a bit of in 2010 and 2011 due to the wet springs.

Most copper products used in the last few decades are “fixed coppers,” and include basic copper sulfate (Cuprofix Ultra Disperss, Basic Copper Sulfate), copper oxide (Nordox), copper hydroxide (Kocide, Champ), and copper oxychloride sulfate (C-O-C-S). These coppers form a suspension in water, and when sprayed on a plant, the copper particles dry to the surface, providing residual protection against the growth of pathogens without harming the plant tissue.

Copper sprays at apple budbreak should be applied at the upper end of the labeled rates. The lower ends of the recommended rates are for applications made at green tip or half-inch green. Fixed copper applied too late and at too high a rate can cause fruit russetting. Copper can have negative impacts on soil-dwelling organisms, so use lower rates where possible.

Several new copper formulations are “solubilized” rather than fixed, such as MasterCop, MagnaBon, Phyton 27AG, and Previsto (pending registration). They contain copper sulfate pentahydrate and are more soluble in water. The label may claim “systemic activity” because the higher solubility allows for more uptake into plant tissue. Previsto and Phyton have shown excellent efficacy against fire blight, and can be used season long. We will discuss more about fire blight control in the next issue.

Production Information

Assessing Frost or Winter Injury

In the early hours of April 18, temperatures in northern Utah dropped to 19 to 27°F in fruit growing regions. In some areas, this will probably mean damage to flower buds, in particular to peach, apricot, and possibly sweet cherry. The extent of the damage will depend on the temperature reached, and the current bud stage (click here for bud stage images).

If apricots are in full bloom, then 10% of flowers will be killed at temperatures reaching 27°F, and 90% will be killed at 22°F.

If sweet cherries are in the bud burst - white bud stages, then 10% of flowers will be killed in the 25 to 27°F temperature range.

Peaches will probably be most affected by the frost. Buds in the quarter-inch green to pink stages at 23 to 25°F will result in a 10% kill. Keep in mind, however, that peaches need to be thinned heavily, anyway, so a 10% loss should not affect yield.

The table below shows some low temperatures recorded by the Utah Climate Center weather stations located in orchards in northern Utah, as well as the coldest temperature recorded there in winter 2013 (January):

Location	Low on 4/18	Coldest Temp 2013
Alpine	24	-7
American Fork	27	-4
Genola	27	-8
Kaysville	23	-8
Orem	26	-7
Payson	26	-7
Perry	27	-9
River Heights	22	-14
Santaquin	25	-7
West Mountain	27	-12

The low temperatures that occurred in January have caused some bud damage. Extremely low temperatures during the winter may damage fruit buds and prevent fruit from setting. Peach trees are very vulnerable to cold weather during winter: peach buds can be killed by midwinter temperatures of -10°F.

Sometimes a freeze will damage only a part of the flower or leaves, and the developing tissue becomes deformed. Buds occurring lower in the tree canopy are more susceptible to damage or death than those higher up.

To determine if buds have been damaged on your trees, wait until the temperatures have warmed significantly. Dead tissue will eventually turn black or brown. Split the flower or bud down the middle and look for brown or black plant tissue within the floral cup. Healthy tissue is greenish or creamy yellow in color.

For more information on assessing winter injury, see Chapter 11 in the Intermountain Tree Fruit Production Guide.

Dormant Sprays, Frost Protection

Fri, 05 Apr 2013 00:00:00 MST

pdf version

April 5, 2012

In this Issue:

News
- New Intermountain Tree Fruit Production Guide
Bud Stages
- County Bud Stage Information
Information on Dormant Sprays
- Dormant Spray Target Fruit
Production Information
- Frost Protection Strategies

What to Look for/Do Now:

Inspect your trees to see if your dormant spray (if applied) was successful. Dead eggs (located near the base of buds and the size of a grain of rice), will be black in color, flattened, and flake off. Scale insects will turn whitish in color.
On apple and pear trees, look for old fire blight infections and prune these out or they will serve as the source of new infections this spring.
Production information: “Frost Protection Strategies,” below

News

New Intermountain Tree Fruit Production Guide

The new edition of the Intermountain Commercial Tree Fruit Production Guide is now available to purchase.

Updates for the 2013 edition include:

all new pesticide rates and comments
new pesticide registrations
residual length added (this information can be found after the pesticide name in the spray tables)
rate in 100 g/acre (where available)
a table of generic names
other general updates

Cost: $16.25
To order: click here

Bud Stages

The cooler weather to come will slow down bud development. For images of bud stages, click here for a pdf fact sheet.

Davis County, Box Elder County, Salt Lake County:

Apples: silver tip - green tip
Apricots: first bloom
Cherries: dormant - swollen bud
Peaches: swollen bud
Pears: dormant - swollen bud

Cache County:

Apples: dormant
Cherries: dormant
Peaches: dormant
Pears: dormant

Utah County:

Apples: silver tip - green tip
Apricot: first bloom
Cherries: dormant - swollen bud
Peaches: swollen bud
Pears: dormant - swollen bud

Weber County:

Apples: silver tip
Apricot: swollen bud to first bloom
Cherries: dormant - swollen bud
Peaches: swollen bud
Pears: dormant - swollen bud

Information on Dormant Sprays

Many of you have already applied your dormant spray, but if you have not, there is still time.

The window of opportunity for sprays depends on the bud stage of your target fruit tree. Follow these guidelines:

Apples: swollen bud - 1/2” green
Pears: swollen bud - cluster bud
Peaches/Nectarines: swollen bud - pre-bloom
Apricot: before bloom

When applying, spray trees just until they are dripping to get good application on all the stems. If you are using horticultural oil alone, use a rate of 2% (mixed in water) for best results. For situations where aphids have been real problems in the past, consider adding an insecticide (such as malathion, carbaryl, acetamiprid, etc.) to 1.5-2% oil.

Dormant Sprays will target the following pests on:

APPLE, PEAR:

aphids, San Jose scale, and fire blight. For fire blight, apply copper up to the green tip stages. Note that it will not KILL the bacteria that causes fire blight, but instead delays or reduces inoculum production in existing cankers.

PEACH/NECTARINE, APRICOT:

aphids, peach twig borer (overwintering and emerging larvae), and the disease, coryneum blight. For coryneum blight, apply copper or Bordeaux for control, or where infestations are more severe, use Bravo (chlorothalonil), Echo, or Ziram, up until pre-bloom.

Production Information

Frost Protection Strategies

Often one or two degrees is the difference between a saved or lost crop. For example, if apples are in bloom, and the temperature drops to 25°F for just 30 minutes, potentially 90% of the flowers can be killed (called T90). (For more information on critical temperatures, click here.) No frost protection scheme will be perfect, and the costs range from minimal to the extreme.

The first key to know whether or not to protect the crop is to know which crops are susceptible for the predicted low, and where are the coldest areas of your orchard or site are located. Also, note that weather stations that report forecasting temperatures might be warmer or colder than your area.

Cloth Coverings:

This option is only to protect a small number of trees; it is not practical for an orchard. Light sheets, burlap, or frost blankets can provide some protection. (Do not use plastic or heavy blankets as these will soak up moisture that will freeze.) The best way to apply the cover is to drape it over the tree and make sure it reaches the ground to retain all the warmth under the cloth. A wet soil is good at this time of year because it absorbs heat during the day. Don’t remove the cloth until late in the morning the next day.

Water:

According to research, overhead irrigation can increase temperatures by 4-6 degrees, and under-tree irrigation by 1-3 degrees. Using water is one of the cheapest options, where it is available. The down-side of using water is over-saturating the soil, leaching of nutrients, and runoff. The irrigation must continue until any ice that has formed melts.

Orchard Heater:

Heaters can help to gain around 1-3 degrees in an orchard. This is one of the most expensive and lease efficient options. In a larger orchard, they require lots of fuel and labor. About 40-60 heaters are needed per acre, each using about 1 gal of fuel per hour. Only about 10-15% of the heat actually stays in the orchard; the rest is dissipated. Heaters are best used in conjunction with wind machines.

Wind Machines or Helicopters:

These devices mix warm air from above with cold air at tree level, and can help to gain around 1-4 degrees in an orchard. A wind machine covers about 10 acres, while a helicopter, although more expensive ($700 - $2,000 per hour), can protect 40 acres, and can bring warm air down from higher levels.

Frost Rescue Spray:

A material called Promalin (a plant growth regulator from Valent) has been tested in North Carolina and New York as a rescue spray, applied within 5 hours of a T90 frost event on apples. The treated orchard in NC had a 25% crop while the untreated orchard was entirely lost (a savings of $2,400/acre). They found that the surviving apples grew to a normal size, but were seedless. The Promalin prevented the apples from dropping even though the seeds were dead. Questions remain about the efficacy of Promalin, such as whether it can be used before bloom, how long after a freeze is it effective, and the problems of storing fruit without seeds.

Fall Chores

Thu, 27 Sep 2012 00:00:00 MST

pdf version

September 27, 2012

In this Issue:

Announcements
- Spotted Wing Drosophila Update
Insect/Disease Activity
Production Information

What to Look for/Do Now:

Consider foliar nitrogen application
Do not let trees go dry this fall
Important coryneum blight preventive spray at 50% leaf drop on peach/nectarine, plum, apricot
Prevent blister mites, silver mite, and other non-webbing mites with a sulfur spray just as leaves start to color

Announcements

Spotted Wing Drosophila Update

If anyone in the Layton area is willing to allow SWD trapping on your property for the next month, please contact cory.stanley@usu.edu

Cory Stanley, USU Coordinator for the Cooperative Agriculture Pest Survey program,reports that the first spotted wing drosophila (SWD) trap catch of 2012 in Utah occurred on September 19 in a backyard orchard in Layton. The trap contained 8 flies.

In 2010-11 Stanley monitored for SWD in 50 fruit-growing locations throughout Utah, and in 2012, focused all monitoring in Davis County. Several growers throughout the state are monitoring their own farms and have not reported any trap catch.

In 2010, SWD was trapped at the USU experimental orchard in Kaysville (total of 73 flies for the season), and in 2011, it was trapped at the same Kaysville orchard (approx. 25 flies) plus two commercial orchards in Fruit Heights (26 flies). When compared with other western states (California, Oregon, Washington) and B.C., Canada, where traps can catch upwards of 40-150 flies/week, these numbers in Utah are very low, possibly attributed to the colder winters, more arid climate, and rigorous spray programs.

The USU traps are a specially designed cup and lid arrangement filled with either cider vinegar or a sugar-yeast solution. A variety of trap designs will work for the orchardist or backyard grower, including Solo cups with holes and lids, or store-bought traps.

A grower will not know whether a treatment program is necessary unless monitoring traps indicate that the flies are present.

SWD maggots will feed in a wide variety of fruit: cherry, blackberry, raspberry, strawberry, grapes, blueberry, and peaches. Cherries and small berries are the prime hosts, but all overripe fruit is fair game. It is important to take precautions to prevent spread and new infestations by picking fruit before it is overripe, removing fruit from trees after harvest, and removing or mowing/shredding fallen fruit.

Below are links to more information about monitoring and treatment for spotted wing drosophila, and images of damage to fruit (click on blue link):

USU Extension fact sheet
USU Extension video about trapping and identification.
Oregon State has a wonderful website, spottedwing.com, including some very detailed spray recommendations for a variety of fruits.

USU Extension will be holding SWD workshops throughout the fruit-growing areas of the state in February, March, and April 2013, as well as a one-day conference on February 26. The workshops will teach exactly how to make and monitor traps and how to identify SWD. Participants will also be given a trap to keep.

Current Insect and Disease Activity

APPLES/PEARS

Codling Moth

Hopefully everyone is having a good apple harvest, with worm-free apples. There are steps you can take this fall to further reduce the codling moth population:

Remove all fallen and infested fruit still on the tree. (This should be done all season, and is more practical for backyard growers.)
This winter,remove unwanted or unmanaged apple trees that serve as hosts.
Commercial growers should remove bins from the orchard and store off-site, if possible, as they often harbor overwintering larvae.

As harvest continues, evaluate those areas of your orchard that see the most damage: are they border trees? are they near external sources of infestation? do you see a pattern? Next season, pay close attention to those problem spots. Hang a monitoring traps there to determine pest pressure. Spot treatments may be necessary, or growers using mating disruption may consider doubling the application rate on border trees or hot spots.

Apple: Pearleaf Blister Mites and Rust Mites

These mites cause the small raised “blisters” on the leaves of pear and apple, which look like brown or black leaf spots. Infested leaves may change color and drop early. As leaves begin to change color and senesce, the mites leave their “blisters” and migrate to the bud scales where they spend the winter.

In spring, females feed on developing leaves and lay their eggs within the blisters. The mites feed within the blisters for protection, but are able to move from one to another. There are several generations over the summer.

Blister mites are mostly a problem on landscape and backyard trees, and apples, pears, and crabapples are hosts.

The best treatment timing is in early fall, just as the leaves start to turn color, when the mites are migrating to leaf buds. Keep in mind that severely infected leaves may turn color early, so keep an eye on the tree and don’t miss out on the timing (which is after the leaves have completely changed color). Treatment options include:

1.5-2% oil, thoroughly covering the bottoms of the leaves
Sevin (carbaryl), alone or with 1% oil
Lime-sulfur (can mix with oil, but not on drought-stressed trees)

Other eriophyid mites include peach silver mite, cherry rust mite, and apple rust mite. Peach silver mite causes peach leaves to have a metallic sheen, while damage from the other mites looks similar to spider mite damage. These other species of mites also migrate from the leaves to bud scales and are susceptible to treatment at the same timing.

Pear Psylla

Pear psylla can be managed in spring or fall with horticultural oil or sulfur. A fall application should be applied just after harvest when the weather has cooled.

STONE FRUITS

Coryneum Blight

From what I saw during scouting trips, coryneum blight was not near the problem this year as in years past (due to the drought.) But that does not mean it is gone. Any history of coryneum means the need for continued management to prevent outbreaks.

A copper spray on peach/nectarine and apricots should be applied at 50% leaf drop for prevention of new coryneum infections. This spray will knock off much of the remaining leaves, so that most of the targeted
infection sites--leaf scars--will get treated.

Options for this fall for coryneum include:

fixed coppers or copper sulfate (Kocide, C-O-C-S, Bonide, Lily Miller Microcop, etc.)
chlorothalonil

If any trees or orchards have severe infections, it will take at least three years of diligent fall, spring, and growing season treatments to suppress the disease incidence.

During dormant season pruning, inspect trees thoroughly for sunken cankers at buds and remove and destroy those stems and twigs. In spring, spray trees at shuck split (when the papery covering over fruit splits away) with chlorothalonil, Pristine, or captan. If necessary, apply captan or Pristine during the growing season during wet periods.

Cherry Powdery Mildew

A late season treatment of lime-sulfur just prior to leaf fall can help reduce overwintering inoculum of Podosphaera. (If you applied oil soon after harvest for powdery mildew, you should not need the lime-sulfur spray.) Powdery mildew can reduce photosynthetic ability, reduce yields, and when it has infected fruit stems, prevent fruit from shaking off.

Production Information

Foliar Nitrogen Application on Cherries and Apples in Fall

In general, nitrogen fertilizer should not be used on fruit trees after late July because they can promote new growth and hinder the tree’s ability to enter dormancy in the fall. Once the tree is dormant, nitrogen could be applied to the soil, but this application would be a waste, with much of it leaching out over the winter.

An alternative method of delivering nitrogen to cherry and apple trees is to apply it as a foliar spray. Fruit specialist, Dr. Brent Black, recommends using foliar urea with a low biuret (formulated for foliar applications), applied at 3-5 lb/100 gal at a rate of 200 gal/acre. This is not a lot of nitrogen (about 6-10 lb/acre), but delivers a big bang for the buck. Tart cherries, in particularly, were under stress this season due to the heavy crop load. The nitrogen in foliar sprays is stored in the buds, and helps trees to develop good early elongation growth, which directly affects fruit development.

The spray should be applied in early October. If applied too late (when leaves begin to color), it will not be absorbed and will be lost to the soil. Foliar nitrogen applications are most beneficial on trees with low N reserves.

Don't Forget One Last Watering

The months between September 2011 and August 2012 mark western Utah’s driest year ever. Utah’s commercial fruit growing area received slightly more rain, but the figures are still not promising.

And climatologists are forecasting that we are entering a stretch of dry years. Where water is available, we can at least help trees make it through this rough patch.

Even when trees appear to have “gone dormant” when all their leaves have fallen, they are still growing--underground, that is. Trees produce foliar growth in spring and summer, and in fall, they spend energy on root growth.

Soils that are moist will help trees to optimize their root growth and be prepared for hard frosts come late fall and winter. Trees with dry roots in winter are more susceptible to winter injury and dessication.

Provide at least one or two good waterings before the ground freezes, of about 2-3 inches each time. This amount will water the trees deeply down into the root zone.

Sometimes Peaches are the Pits

Many peach growers discovered at harvest that peaches of all varieties, including late, had split pits or shattered pits this year. The problem can happen about 3 weeks after bloom, or during the pit hardening stage when the fruits make their final swell. When the fruit flesh expands before the pit has fully hardened and the bond between flesh and pit is still tight, internal forces pull on the pit, causing it to break along the suture. Usually, in later ripening varieties, the bond between flesh and pit is weaker during the period of final swell, lessening the chances of split pit.

Fruits with shattered pits are usually obvious, but sometimes the problem is not noticed until after storage or when the fruit is opened and the cavity is a gummy mess. The splits can allow insects to enter, introducing rot fungi.

Shattered pit is caused by an internal defect, sometimes with gumming at the blossom end.

Split pit is an opening or splitting
of the pit at the stem end.

There is no one cause of split pits, and many factors have been named as contributing to the problem. The real issue lies in the balance of carbohydrates between the canopy and roots. This balance is upset by winter injury, high heat, freeze injury to fruit in spring, excess soil moisture in spring followed by dry soils in summer, excess vigor, or trunk damage. In addition, practices that are necessary to produce large fruit size can sometimes lead to split pits such as heavy thinning and excess irrigation or fertilizer applications close to harvest.

Problems with split pit vary from year to year and from cultivar to cultivar. If this is a problem you find every year, the idea is to develop a balance between fruit size and split pit losses. This may be done by:

do not over-thin, or better yet, leave heavier crops on prone varieties
on prone varieties, wait and thin until pits are hard (will have to use knife to test)
reduce fertilization practices
maintain even soil moisture

Examples of Apple Maladies Seen During Harvest

Some of the examples below are the more common types of damage that can be found on ripening apples.

San Jose scale	Bird pecking

Powdery mildew-induced russeting	Spray-induced russeting

Hail damage	Rot introduced by codling moth

Split at calyx end	*Bitter pit*

*Sunburn*	*Browning of lenticels caused by sunburn*

*Earwig feeding*	*Scars from campylomma feeding*

*Feeding by leafroller*	*Cat-facing injury from stink bug feeding*

*Pansy spot caused by thrips egg-laying*

Peach Problems at Harvest

Mon, 27 Aug 2012 00:00:00 MST

pdf version

August 27, 2012

In this Issue:

Insect/Disease Activity
When Do I Spray?
- Peach Twig Borer
Sprays-Commercial
Sprays-Residential

What to Look for/Do Now:

Both codling moth and peach twig borer third generation egg hatches beginning soon in warmer locations of northern Utah
Spider mites continue to be active where ever predatory mites have not kept them in check
Now is the time to collect leaves for nutritional analysis by the USU Analytical Lab for precise spring applications
If 4-6 hr rains occur during peach ripening stage, may need to apply fungicide to prevent coryneum infection

Announcement

Surround available for home use

Surround (kaolin clay) is now available in smaller quantities (5 and 10 lb), sold as “Surround at Home Crop Protectant”. Surround is an organic product that can be used as a repellent (does not kill insects) to control pests such as leafhopper and pear psylla, and to suppress mites, codling moth, and many other pests. It can also prevent sunscald.

It works by forming a dry, white barrier film on the fruit. It is used at a rate of 3 cups product to 1 gallon of water and sprayed to thoroughly cover the tree. It lasts 7-14 days until plant growth ceases, and then 14-21 days. It can be mixed with other pesticides.

Current Insect and Disease Activity

APPLES/PEARS

Codling Moth

Third generation egg hatch is underway in all areas of northern Utah, ranging from 2% in colder counties to about 20% in all other counties down to Utah County. We are still trapping codling moth, though numbers are low in many areas. The recommended time to stop treatments is September 15, when eggs will have stopped hatching due to cooler weather and shorter days. You might consider one last treatment to maintain protection for these last 3 weeks.

Insecticides effective for codling moth in commercial orchards and recommended near harvest include Assail (7 d PHI), Imidan (7 d PHI), Intrepid (14 d PHI), and codling moth granulosis virus (see label).

White Apple Leafhopper

White apple leafhopper summer generation nymphs are continuing to build in numbers. As they mature to adults, activity will peak in mid September, around the start of apple harvest. This is when the leafhopper is considered a true pest as they fly into the face and eyes of pickers.

Normally control should target first generation nymphs, but if necessary, treatments for the second generation will also work. Waiting until they are adults decreases the effectiveness of your insecticide of choice.

Apple and Pearleaf Blister Mites and Rust Mites

Blister mites and rust mites are microscopic mites in the group called eriophyid mites. Eriophyid mites are mostly a problem on backyard trees rather than in large, commercial orchards. Feeding by blister mites causes blisters to form on leaves that are barely visible in spring, and by late summer, appear as raised, brown necrotic (dead) spots. Feeding by most rust mites looks very similar to spider mite injury (with the exception of peach silver mite, which causes a silvery sheen to the leaves.)

Left: Appleleaf blister mite

Bottom Left: Peach silver mite

Bottom Right: Rust mite on apple

These mites overwinter in the host trees’ bud scales. In spring, females feed on developing leaves and blister mites lay their eggs within the blisters. The mites feed within the blisters for protection, but are able to move from one to another. There are several generations over the summer. Before leaf fall, eriophyid mites migrate to buds for the winter.

The best treatment timing is in early fall, before leaf drop, as mites are migrating to leaf buds.

Pear Psylla

Pear psylla adults become active early in spring, with several generations throughout the growing season. If present, it is most noticeable by July and August. Nymphs live and feed within a protective, honeydew “bubble” on the undersides of leaves. Their feeding causes necrotic (dead) lesions on the leaves, and high populations can cause loss of vigor as well as unsightly sooty mold growing on the honeydew that drips onto the fruit.

Pear psylla can be managed in spring or fall with horticultural oil or sulfur. A fall application should be applied just after harvest when the weather has cooled.

STONE FRUITS

Peach Twig Borer

Egg hatch of 3rd generation larvae is progressing quickly: 30-50% of all eggs have hatched in Salt Lake, Weber, Davis, and Box Elder Counties, while 5-20% have hatched in Utah County. Many peaches have been harvested, but the remaining peaches still need protection up to September 15.

Be sure to consider the pre harvest intervals of insecticides (required interval between last application and picking fruit) when applying late season insecticides.

Boxelder Bugs

We have had reports of large aggregations of boxelder bugs in the Box Elder and Davis county fruit growing areas on peach, apple, and pear. Adults prefer feeding on fruit that is just ready to harvest, which makes control difficult. Only products with a very short pre-harvest interval can be used. Options include Sevin (carbaryl, PHI: 3 days), Lannate (methomyl, PHI: 4 days), malathion (PHI: 7 days), or for day-of sprays, there are many options containing pyrethrin (Pyganic E.C., Pyronyl, Pyrellin E.C., Pyrola, Pyrenone Crop Spray; PHI: 0).

Greater Peachtree Borer

Keep the lower 12-18” of trunks and exposed roots of peach, nectarine, and apricot trees protected against this pest through September. Most products provide about 3 weeks of protection.

Spider Mites

Spider mites are still actively feeding, but the shorter days are signaling them to slow down their reproduction. Soon, orange-colored adult females will develop to serve as the overwintering form. These females will migrate to sheltered areas on the lower trunks or on debris and groundcover near trunks starting in September.

If spider mite densities are high, a late season treatment may be helpful, but it is uncommon to need to treat for spider mites after mid-August.

Examples of Peach Maladies Seen During Harvest

During harvest, you will see many types of injury on peaches. Some can be explained while others (mostly caused by environmental factors) are more difficult to discern. Some of the examples below are the more common types of damage that can be found on ripening peach and nectarine fruit.

Late season coryneum infections	Earwig feeding followed by rot

Bird injury	Earwig feeding

Cat-facing injury caused by stink bugs	Peach split pit/uneven ripening

Hail damage	Ooze from split pit

Green peach aphid damage on nectarine	Split pit

Mechanical injury (rubbing)	Rotting peaches due to split pit

Rot caused by split pit	Feeding by fruitworm larva

Peach powdery mildew	Early thrips damage to nectarine

Russeting caused by apple powdery mildew	Late thrips damage to nectarine

Peach twig borer	"Rubber ducky" peach/fruit twinning

Peach Twig Borer - When to Spray

Peach Twig Borer, Second and Third Generations

Keep fruit protected until September 15.

County	Location	Start of 3rd Generation Egg Hatch
Box Elder	Perry	August 19
Box Elder	Tremonton	August 30
Cache	River Heights	September 3
Cache	Smithfield	September 3
Carbon	Price	September 4
Davis	Kaysville	August 20
Iron	Cedar City	August 29
Salt Lake	All Regions	August 11
Tooele	Tooele	August 11-15
Uintah	Vernal	August 23
Utah	Alpine	August 31 - September 6
	American Fork	August 25
	Genola	August 23
	Lincoln Point	August 24
	Orem	August 23
	Payson	August 25 - 30
	Santaquin	August 24 - 28
Weber	Pleasant View	August 18

Spray Materials - Commercial Applicators

Please look up spray material options in the 2012 Utah-Colorado Tree Fruit Production Guide. If you do not have a copy and would like one, contact marion.murray@usu.edu. You may also access spray options at the guide’s companion website at intermountainfruit.org.

Spray Materials - Residential Applicators

Note that these treatments are only recommended if you know you have the particular pest in your trees. We recommend learning about specific pests, and scouting your trees at least once/week. Products are listed by Conventional (usually broad-spectrum pesticides that are effective, but harmful to beneficial insects), or Soft/Organic (not as effective, but safer for environment and humans). Products are listed in order of efficacy.

Target Pest	Host	Chemical	Example Brands	Comments
Both codling moth AND Peach twig borer (except Cyd-X)	apple, pear	*Conventional*		acetamiprid: every 14 days carbaryl: every 14 - 21 days malathion: every 7 days hort. oil (codling moth only): lasts 5-7 days for killing eggs; use at beginning of each generation; apply at 1% rate only when temperatures are below 80; follow up with a different product spinosad: every 7 days codling moth virus (codling moth only) can only be purchased online
		acetamiprid	Ortho Max Flower, Fruit, and Veg.
		carbaryl	Sevin, Bonide Fruit Tree Spray, etc.
		malathion	Malathion

		*Soft/organic*
		hort. oil (1%)	Many products
		spinosad	Green Light, Gardens Alive Bull’s Eye, Monterey
		codling moth virus	Cyd-X
Coryneum blight	peach, apricot	captan	Captan	use as a preventive before a rain

Precautionary Statement: Utah State University Extension and its employees are not responsible for the use, misuse, or damage caused by application or misapplication of products or information mentioned in this document. All pesticides are labeled with ingredients, instructions, and risks. The pesticide applicator is legally responsible for proper use. USU makes no endorsement of the products listed herein.

Bitter Pit, Late Season Peach Pests, Phytophthora Crown and Collar Rot

Fri, 03 Aug 2012 00:00:00 MST

pdf version

August 3, 2012

In this Issue:

Insect/Disease Activity
When Do I Spray?
- Codling Moth
- Peach Twig Borer
Sprays-Commercial
Sprays-Residential

What to Look for/Do Now:

Both codling moth and peach twig borer third generation egg hatches beginning soon in warmer locations of northern Utah
Spider mites continue to be active where ever predatory mites have not kept them in check
Now is the time to collect leaves for nutritional analysis by the USU Analytical Lab for precise spring applications
If 4-6 hr rains occur during peach ripening stage, may need to apply fungicide to prevent coryneum infection

Current Insect and Disease Activity

APPLES/PEARS

Codling Moth

The USU monitoring traps are showing low numbers of codling moths for the second generation moth flight, which is good news all around. We suspect that the third generation flight will be even smaller.

Most of the warmer areas along the Wasatch Front will be approaching the end of the second generation egg hatch by mid August. There is no “break” between the end of egg hatch of the second generation and beginning of hatch at the third generation. So basically, continue your spray program until September 15, if you have not harvested by then.

Bitter Pit of Apple

Lack of calcium in apple fruits can result in a physiological disorder of the fruit, leaving sunken, brown lesions on the skin, known as bitter pit. The lesions are located mainly on the calyx end of the fruit and are circular in shape. Lesions become worse after storage, turning dark brown to black.

Bitter pit usually occurs on trees with low fruit set, excessive vigor, irregular soil moisture, or on certain varieties. Granny Smith, Golden Delicious, Mutsu, Gravenstein, Yellow Newtown, Jonathan, and Red Delicious are among the more susceptible varieties, although almost any young, extremely vigorous tree may exhibit symptoms.

Treatment:

Calcium sprays have been shown to reduce bitter pit symptoms. Ideally, sprays should be spaced throughout the season, starting 1-2 weeks after bloom and continuing monthly until harvest. However, if bitter pit has been a nagging problem in your orchard and you have not applied calcium yet, consider 1-2 calcium sprays on expanding fruit before harvest (target the fruit, not the foliage). In some studies, calcium in the form of calcium nitrate has shown to work better when applied as late sprays (do not spray at temps above 80-85F). Avoid spraying Crispin and Golden Delicious with calcium nitrate, since fruit damage may result. After harvest, a 4% calcium chloride dip is also effective. Store fruit immediately and wash before eating. (Note that calcium chloride is corrosive to metal.)

For the best bitter pit prevention, an integrated approach of the following cultural practices is important to prevent bitter pit:

during irrigation season, avoid wide fluctuations in soil moisture
do not over-fertilize to avoid vigorous growth and oversized fruit
do not over-prune
try to prevent biennial bearing through proper thinning and pollination practices
harvest at optimal timing because late harvested fruit is prone to bitter bit

Calcium sprays (calcium chloride, calcium nitrate, STOP-IT, Nutri-Cal, Miracal, etc.) should be applied monthly throughout the growing season only if the above practices do not alleviate the problem.

STONE FRUITS

Peach Twig Borer

For the first time since 2007, there will be a few weeks of a third generation peach twig borer egg hatch that peach growers will need to deal with to keep fruit protected. Most sites south of Cache County will see the start of 3rd generation egg hatch between August 11 and 19, with a “break” of about 7-10 days after the end of the 2nd generation egg hatch. Where peaches are concentrated (such as Box Elder County), we have seen very high trap catch, suggesting that growers should be ready to keep ripening fruit protected.

Backyard growers that can tolerate some losses can simply remove and destroy infested fruit over the next few weeks until harvest to moderate the population, instead of spraying. This can take more time, but is a good way to remove a segment of the twig borer population without having to spray so close to harvest.

If you are spraying, avoid using pyrethroid insecticides (Asana, Pounce, Ambush, Spectracide Triazicide) at this time of year as they are harsh on predatory mites that provide biological control of spider mites.

Pests of Ripening Peaches

Boxelder bugs can be a threat only where these bugs are commonly found. In
the past, we have seen problems in areas of Utah and Box Elder counties.

European paper wasps are attracted to overripe fruit or fruit with exposed flesh.

Some areas are harvesting early peach varieties now, which means that pests such as boxelder bugs, earwigs, and European paper wasps are starting to become a concern. One of the best tools for managing these pests is to harvest fruit quickly as it ripens, or even a touch before fully ripe. Keep an eye on the ripest peaches on the trees to see if any of these pests are becoming a concern.

If there is a problem with large numbers of any of these pests or other pests of ripe fruit, then a treatment of Prentox Pyronyl Crop Spray (pyrethrin), which can be used up to the day of harvest, or Sevin, which can be used up to 3 days before harvest.

Earwigs cause a small but deep pit in the surface of the peach,
usually surrounded by black frass pellets (excrement).

Using special traps can help with some of these pests. Earwigs hide during the day, so trap them by using cardboard or rolled newspapers tucked in limb crotches. Another option is to apply Tanglefoot to duct tape wrapped around the tree trunk.

To deal with European paper wasps, make a homemade trap by cutting the top third from a plastic soda bottle and invert it into the bottom portion. Punch a hole on each side and tie on string for hanging. Add a mixture of 1 part fruit juice to 10 parts water plus 1 tsp liquid detergent to keep the wasps in the water. Adding a bit of ripened fruit will make it even more attractive.

Greater Peachtree Borer

Keep the trunks of peach, nectarine, and apricot trees protected against this pest through September. Most products provide about 3 weeks of protection.

Phytophthora Crown and Collar Rot

Large trees that die suddenly at this time of year have probably been living with Phytophthora infections much of the season. An infected tree has a limited ability to transport nutrients and the stress of heat, drought, and bearing fruit can result in a quick death. Trees that have minor infections will show chronic symptoms, such as small, chlorotic leaves and fruit, poor growth, early fall color, and late spring leaf emergence.

Phytophthora is a fungus-like, soil-borne pathogen that kills root and crown tissue. It is present in almost all soils, but infection only occurs with the combination of saturated soils and a susceptible host. The following shows the susceptibility of various fruits:

Peach and apricot: susceptible, but not commonly seen in Utah
Apples: M-9, M-2, and M-4 are relatively resistant; M-7 (and M-7a), M-26, and MM-111 are moderately susceptible; MM-106 and MM-104 are highly susceptible.
Plums and Pears: relatively resistant
Cherry: susceptible to very susceptible; Mahaleb is the most susceptible cherry rootstock; Mazzard, Morello, and Colt are somewhat more resistant

To prevent infection, avoid planting trees in low spots or in poorly drained soils. Plant new trees slightly high so that they do not settle lower than the normal soil height, and prevent water from puddling around the root collar.

Unfortunately, there is no “cure” for infected trees. Trees that show moderate symptoms may recover with a soil application of Ridomil Gold, which is usually made in spring (on non-bearing trees only). Asymptomatic trees growing adjacent to phytophthora-killed trees should be given a foliar treatment with phosphorus acid (Agri-Fos, Fosphite, others), which will help the tree(s) develop tolerance to future infection.

Removal of infected trees and sanitation is important. If possible, do not spread soil or infested debris from one area to another. Do not replant in an infested site without drenching the soil with fosetyl-Al (Aliette) as a preventive. Try to improve soil drainage, monitor soil moisture, and fix any irrigation leaks.

Walnut Husk Fly

Flies are at peak flight, so those who wish to treat their walnuts should continue treatments until a month before harvest. Flies are known to continue emerging until October.

Keep in mind that the flies do not affect the nutmeats, just the husk, so treatments of backyard trees is not always necessary.

Codling Moth - When to Spray

Codling Moth, Second and Third Generations

Second generation egg hatch is still underway; continue protecting fruit until SEPTEMBER 15. The content below is for information purposes only because there is no long “break” between second and third generations.

County	Location	End of 2nd Generation Egg Hatch (2100 DD):	Beginning of 3rd Generation Egg Hatch (2150 DD):
Box Elder	Perry	August 8	August 10
Box Elder	Tremonton	August 19	August 22
Cache	River Heights	August 26	August 29
Cache	Smithfield	August 26	August 29
Carbon	Price	August 20	August 23
Davis	Kaysville	August 11	August 13
Iron	Cedar City	August 19	August 21
Salt Lake	All Regions	July 30	August 2
Tooele	Tooele	August 6	August 8
Uintah	Vernal	August 15	August 17
Utah	Alpine	August 20	August 23
	American Fork	August 12	August 14
	Genola	August 9	August 11
	Lincoln Point	August 11	August 14
	Orem	August 10	August 12
	Payson	August 17	August 19
	Santaquin	August 15	August 17
Weber	Pleasant View	August 10	August 12
Wasatch	Heber City	after September 15	after September 15

Peach Twig Borer - When to Spray

Peach Twig Borer, Second and Third Generations

End of second generation egg hatch, where you should “keep fruit protected up to” is at 1900 degree days. Third generation egg hatch, which will be occurring only on fruit, begins a few weeks after the second generation ends. Like prior generations, if you had moderate to severe PTB damage last year, use the earlier spray date to start again. If you had very little PTB damage last year, use the later date to start sprays. These two dates correspond to 2140 and 2250 degree days after biofix, or 5% and 16% egg hatch.

Keep fruit protected until September 15.

County	Location	Keep Fruit Protected Up To (2nd Generation):	Start Protecting Fruit 3rd Generation:
Box Elder	Perry	August 6	August 17-21
Box Elder	Tremonton	August 20	September 1-7
Cache	River Heights	August 25	September 7-14
Cache	Smithfield	August 25	September 7-14
Carbon	Price	August 28	after September 15
Davis	Kaysville	August 7	August 16-21
Iron	Cedar City	August 14	August 27- September 1
Salt Lake	All Regions	July 29	August 7-11
Tooele	Tooele	August 2	August 11-15
Uintah	Vernal	August 11	August 23
Utah	Alpine	August 22	September 4-11
	American Fork	August 11	August 21-25
	Genola	August 9	August 19-22
	Lincoln Point	August 12	August 22-27
	Orem	August 13	August 23
	Payson	August 13	August 23
	Santaquin	August 12	August 22-27
Weber	Pleasant View	August 11	August 21-26
Wasatch	Heber City	after September 15	after September 15

Spray Materials - Commercial Applicators

Spray Materials - Residential Applicators

Target Pest	Host	Chemical	Example Brands	Comments
Both codling moth AND Peach twig borer (except Cyd-X)	apple, pear	*Conventional*		acetamiprid: every 14 days carbaryl: every 14 - 21 days malathion: every 7 days hort. oil: lasts 5-7 days for killing eggs; use at beginning of each generation; apply at 1% rate only when temperatures are below 80; follow up with a different product spinosad: every 7 days codling moth virus (codling moth only) can only be purchased online
		acetamiprid	Ortho Max Flower, Fruit, and Veg.
		carbaryl	Sevin, Bonide Fruit Tree Spray, etc.
		malathion	Malathion

		*Soft/organic*
		hort. oil (1%)	Many products
		spinosad	Green Light, Gardens Alive Bull’s Eye, Monterey
		codling moth virus	Cyd-X
Coryneum blight	peach, apricot	captan	Captan	use as a preventive before a rain

San Jose Scale, Pear Psylla, Cat-facing Injury

Fri, 20 Jul 2012 00:00:00 MST

pdf version

July 20, 2012

In this Issue:

Insect/Disease Activity
Upcoming Monitoring/Insect Activity
When Do I Spray?
- Codling Moth
- Peach Twig Borer
Sprays-Commercial
Sprays-Residential

What to Look for/Do Now:

Spider mite populations are starting to build
Second generation San Jose scale crawlers emerging soon
Iron chlorosis is evident on new foliage of peach, plum; consider getting leaf nutrition analysis in early August
If 4-6 hr rains occur during peach ripening stage, may need to apply fungicide to prevent coryneum infection

Current Insect and Disease Activity

APPLES/PEARS

Codling Moth

Except for the coldest areas (Cache, Wasatch counties) all other areas are in the middle of second generation egg hatch, so maintain protection of fruit. The end of egg hatch for this generation will occur August 11 - 20. There will be a full third generation this year, with no real “down time” between the second and third. So basically, in those areas that have high pest pressure, keep fruit protected from now through the middle of September (when you can stop, even if harvest has not begun yet).

San Jose Scale

San Jose scale will have a second emergence of crawlers, coming up soon in may areas. This pest is usually treated primarily with the dormant oil spray and with treatment of the first crawler emergence. But if you have a heavy infestation, or missed the window for the first emergence, consider a treatment for the timing below. One treatment is all that is necessary, with 1% horticultural oil (evening or early am to avoid 85+ temps) or Esteem.

Box Elder: July 22 - 25
Cache: August 6 - 10
Davis: July 24 - 28
Iron: July 30 - August 3
Salt Lake: July 22
Tooele: July 21 - 24
Utah, Uintah: July 25 - 29
Wasatch: August 17 - 21

White Apple Leafhopper

Where present, leafhopper feeding damage on leaves can now be seen. The second generation has begun, and nymphs are active on the undersides of leaves. If you saw heavy leafhopper earlier, now would be a good time to treat because the nymphs are more susceptible and easier to treat than the adults. Adult activity will become very noticeable by mid to late August.

Feeding on the foliage will not affect apple yield or tree health, but this pest can become a nuisance to pickers late in the season during apple harvest.

Pear Psylla

If you had not noticed the presence of pear psylla this spring, damage is evident now. They are active from spring to fall, and if left unchecked, can build to damaging levels. Not only do they excrete honeydew, but their feeding kills the plant tissue.

At this point in the growing season, adults, eggs, newlyhatched nymphs and older nymphs can be found. The best timing for treatment is in spring, but if necessary, horticultural oil can be applied (when temperatures are below 85-90F). Commercial growers can use Assail, Centaur, Clutch or Provado.

STONE FRUITS

Peach Twig Borer

Most areas are at he beginning of or are just approaching second generation egg hatch for peach twig borer. Peach twig borer larvae prefer feeding in shoots over fruit, but once the shoots harden off, adult moths will instead lay eggs on the ripening fruit, which is why the second generation can be more damaging.

Most growers can get away with one spray (on the appropriate date) per generation. But keep in mind that the warmer summer will speed up egg hatch and larval development, and if you are harvesting peaches late into August and/or early September, you may need to apply a second application to protect the ripening fruit.

Peach Silver Mite

Peach silver mite is a microscopic eriophyid mite that feeds on the bottoms of leaves. Where it occurs, it is present all season, but only becomes noticeable in mid summer when populations build to high numbers in the heat. Their feeding causes leaves to look silvery in appearance.

Trees can tolerate high populations, but when leaves start to droop and fall, a miticide or 0.5 - 1% horticultural oil application should take care of the problem. Alternatively, they can be treated in early spring (at budbreak) with oil.

Spotted Wing Drosophila Update

Spotted wing drosophila (SWD), an invasive vinegar fly that was introduced into the U.S. in 2009 and has since spread to almost two dozen states, was detected in Kaysville in August 2010. There were a few detections in 2011, in three sites in Davis County.

This season, Cory Stanley, USU Coordinator for the Cooperative Agricultural Pest Survey (CAPS) program has set up traps throughout Davis County and southern Weber County. Trapping sites include areas where raspberries, sweet cherries, tart cherries, and peaches are grown, as well as fruit stands. Traps are baited with yeast and sugar solution, which is replaced weekly when trap contents are removed and examined for SWD presence.

To date, no SWD have been confirmed yet this year

Spider Mites

The spider mite species that cause damage to fruit trees in Utah are two-spotted and McDaniel, with two-spotted being the most common. They share the same life cycle and appear similar.

Spider mites can be found in large numbers by this time of year, as they thrive in hot, dusty conditions. Their feeding causes leaves to look stippled with tiny white spots. In heavier feeding, leaves will start to bronze. Monitor for spider mite damage on all fruit crops by looking at the undersides of the leaves for a dirty appearance, and use a hand lens to get an estimate of the number of mites per leaf. If you see approximately 1 predatory mite per leaf and/or fewer than 5-10 damaging mites per leaf, then there is no need to spray. But by the time damage is obvious, the population is much greater than this.

Ideally, spider mite populations are held in check by the presence of the western predatory mite (Galendromous occidentalis). Predatory mites are very sensitive to certain insecticides, especially pyrethroids (any ingredient ending in “-thrin”, which is why we recommend keeping pyrethroid sprays to a minimum (especially early in the season).

Predatory mites are teardrop shaped, translucent in color, and usually have longer legs. They can be spotted easily with a hand lens because they move rapidly through the slower-moving spider mite colonies.

Cat-facing Injury

Stink bug nymphs can be seen in the orchard now.

Cat-facing injury is a generic term used to describe a symptom caused by feeding of true bugs (lygus and stink bugs) on young fruit. Although these insects are considered minor pests, most commercial and residential orchards will see a certain level of damage each year.

True bugs feed by inserting their proboscis into the fruit flesh. They excrete a salivary enzyme that breaks down the cells, and then suck up the dissolved food juices. The damage caused to the fruit will look different depending on when the feeding occurred. Trying to distinguish which insect may have caused the damage is almost impossible to discern because their feeding habits are so similar. Scouting for adults throughout the season will help to determine which is most common in your tree or orchard.

Both lygus bugs and adult stink bugs can feed on very young, developing fruit, but they leave the orchard for other crops (alfalfa, weeds) to breed and feed until later in the season. When alfalfa is cut or weeds die back, lygus and stink bugs will come back to the orchard as adults.

If your orchard is bordered by lots of weedy areas, watch closely for signs of feeding damage on the fruit. By late-August, stink bugs move on to overwintering sites.

Severely dimpled fruit indicates that feeding occurred earlier in the season. Early to mid-season feeding by lygus bugs will cause strings of oozing gum and sometimes, a water-soaked appearance. Feeding closer to harvest does not cause gumming, and may not be noticeable until later, when the flesh appears brown and corky or even decayed. Sometimes, injury does not show up until fruit is brought out of storage.

If possible, remove weed hosts in the orchard (mullein, ironweed, horse-weed) or keep them mown within and on orchard edges.

The most effective products on adult true bugs are the broad spectrum insecticides (carbaryl and pyrethroids). Only consider a treatment if it is worth the cost of killing beneficial insects that may be feeding on other pests.

Post-harvest Control of Western Cherry Fruit Fly

Tart cherry harvest began last week, and will continue for another few weeks. If sprays need to be applied, consider spinosad (or GF-120) or carbaryl (Sevin) where the pre-harvest interval is short (0 days or 3 days).

After harvest is finished, commercial growers that still have fruit remaining on the trees should consider a post-harvest application to clean up later emerging flies. Cherry fruit flies become more numerous later in the season, and females will continue to lay eggs in ripe/overripe fruit as long as possible. Protecting unharvested fruit is wise because you are decreasing the overwintering population in your orchard.

For commercial growers, dimethoate is the best option (costwise), as is a generic imidacloprid registered on fruits.

Homeowners should remove and destroy all fallen fruit (including sweet cherries), and if possible, pick your cherry trees clean to remove egg-laying sites for late-emerging fruit flies.

Earwigs

Even though this summer has been dry, European earwig populations are still high, especially due to the moist seasons of 2010-11. They do not like dry conditions, so they concentrate in areas that are irrigated and have moist, cool places to hide during the day. They feed mostly at night, leaving behind trails of black frass. Keep in mind that earwigs are omnivorous, and can be considered beneficial insects in that they feed on insects such as aphids and insect eggs.

We mostly see earwigs on peaches. They will usually not start feeding on fruit until it softens. Often they enter fruit through the stem end, and feed around the pit. They may exit through the stem end or through a new exit hole. You may also see shallow gouges on the fruit surface or a single deep hole. The riper the fruit, the more appealing it is to feeding.

To manage earwigs, use a variety of options:

1. Trap regularly. Options are: cat food or tuna cans, with 1/2-inch of fish or bacon oil in the bottom;rolled-up newspaper; rolled up corrugated cardboard; bamboo sticks; or short pieces of hose. Place traps on the soil or wrapped around the tree trunk and empty traps into soapy water, or change them out, daily. Continue until you are no longer catching earwigs.

2. Remove refuge sites. Keep mulch away from trees, remove weedy growth or groundcovers from the base of trees.
Remove tree suckers or any limbs touching the ground.
Remove loose bark on fruit trees where earwigs can hide.

3. Pick fruit as soon as they start to ripen.

4. Insecticides. Spinosad kills earwigs when they feed on the residual material. It can be used either as a spray or bait sprinkled at the base of trees (Sluggo Plus). (In this method, the bait must be used before the earwigs enter the tree. Otherwise, sprinkle bait in tree crotches.) Carbaryl (Sevin) can also be used, applied to the tree trunk and scaffold limbs, but again, it must be applied as soon as earwigs are starting to enter the tree.

Iron Deficiency

Iron chlorosis is common this season, as it is almost every year. The problem is not caused by a lack of iron in the soil, but rather the soil pH (which ranges from 7.5 to 8.5). In high pH, iron is insoluble, and therefore not available for root absorption. Because irrigation water is also very alkaline, trying to manage iron deficiency by reducing soil pH is impossible.

Iron deficiency is exacerbated by frequent springtime irrigation, prolonged soil wetness, or an uneven root to shoot ratio.

Iron is a nutrient necessary for the formation of chlorophyll. Lack of chlorophyll means reduced photosynthesis, and reduced tree vigor. Iron-deficient leaves have interveinal chlorosis (yellowing between veins). In severe symptoms, leaves may show blackened scorching, curling, or premature drop. Some trees are genetically more susceptible to nutrient deficiencies than others.

To prevent or treat iron deficiency, chelated iron should be applied to the soil in spring before budbreak. Usually one application is good for the entire season, but must be repeated again the following spring. Adding iron to the soil later in the season is also an option, but takes longer to see results. Foliar sprays (0.1%) with a spreader-sticker provide quick results but must be reapplied at approximately 10- to 21-day intervals. The drawback of foliar sprays is that staining of fruit can occur.

Iron amendments for high pH soil should be chelated, meaning that it is readily available for absorption, and not affected by soil pH. The best form of chelated iron to use is EDDHA, sold as Sequestrene or Miller’s Ferriplus.

To be sure of the correct nutrient deficiency, the USU Analytical Lab (435-797-2217) can test foliar and soil samples. Iron chlorosis symptoms usually show up later in the season, but research has shown that nutrient analysis of peach flowers in spring can be used for predicting iron deficiency.

Upcoming Monitoring/Insect Activity

Pest	Host(s)	Monitoring Action
San Jose scale	apple mostly	Crawler emergence early June; treat in late June
White apple leafhopper	apple	Adults of first generation form in late June; nymphs of second generation start showing up in mid-July
Cat-facing insects (lygus, stink bugs)	peach	As peaches start to ripen, these piercing-sucking insects will become attracted to feeding on the flesh

Codling Moth - When to Spray

Codling Moth, Second and Third Generations

County	Location	Beginning of 2nd Generation Egg Hatch:	End of 2nd Generation Egg Hatch (2100 DD):	Beginning of 3rd Generation Egg Hatch (1150 DD):
Box Elder	Perry	passed	August 12	August 14
Box Elder	Tremonton	passed	August 21	August 24
Cache	River Heights	July 21	after August 22	after August 22
Cache	Smithfield	July 20	after August 22	after August 22
Carbon	Price	passed	August 20	August 22
Davis	Kaysville	passed	August 13	August 14
Iron	Cedar City	passed	August 20	August 23
Salt Lake	All Regions	passed	August 5	August 7
Tooele	Tooele	passed	August 8	August 10
Uintah	Vernal	passed	August 17	August 19
Utah	Alpine	passed	August 22	August 25
	American Fork	passed	August 14	August 16
	Genola	passed	August 12	August 13
	Lincoln Point	passed	August 12	August 14
	Orem	passed	August 14	August 16
	Payson	passed	August 16	August 18
	Santaquin	passed	August 15	August 17
Weber	Pleasant View	passed	August 11	August 12
Wasatch	Heber City	July 25	after August 22	after August 22

Peach Twig Borer - When to Spray

Peach Twig Borer, Second and Third Generations

County	Location	Start Protecting Fruit 2nd Generation:	Keep Fruit Protected Up To (2nd Generation):	Start Protecting Fruit 3rd Generation:
Box Elder	Perry	passed	August 9	August 20-24
Box Elder	Tremonton	July 24-27	after August 22	after August 22
Cache	River Heights	July 27-31	after August 22	after August 22
Cache	Smithfield	July 28-August 1	after August 22	after August 22
Carbon	Price	July 24-27	after August 22	after August 22
Davis	Kaysville	passed	August 8	August 17-21
Iron	Cedar City	July 20	August 15	after August 22
Salt Lake	All Regions	passed	August 12	August 10-14
Tooele	Tooele	passed	August 4	August 13-17
Uintah	Vernal	passed	August 12	after August 22
Utah	Alpine	July 22-23	August 22	after August 22
	American Fork	passed	August 11	August 21-25
	Genola	passed	August 9	August 19-22
	Lincoln Point	July 20	August 12	August 22-27
	Orem	July 20-23	August 15	after August 22
	Payson	passed	August 11	August 23-26
	Santaquin	July 20	August 12	August 22-27
Weber	Pleasant View	June 20	August 11	August 21-26
Wasatch	Heber City	August 5-9	after August 22	after August 22

Spray Materials - Commercial Applicators

Spray Materials - Residential Applicators

Target Pest	Host	Chemical	Example Brands	Comments
Both codling moth AND Peach twig borer (except Cyd-X)	apple, pear	*Conventional*		acetamiprid: every 14 days carbaryl: every 14 - 21 days malathion: every 7 days gamma-cyhalothrin: every 14 days hort. oil: lasts 5-7 days for killing eggs; use at beginning of each generation; apply at 1% rate only when temperatures are below 80; follow up with a different product spinosad: every 7 days codling moth virus (codling moth only) can only be purchased online
		acetamiprid	Ortho Max Flower, Fruit, and Veg.
		carbaryl	Sevin, Bonide Fruit Tree Spray, etc.
		malathion	Malathion
		gamma-cyhalothrin	Spectracide Triazicide

		*Soft/organic*
		hort. oil (1%)	Many products
		spinosad	Green Light, Gardens Alive Bull’s Eye, Monterey
		codling moth virus	Cyd-X
Coryneum blight	peach, apricot	captan	Captan	use as a preventive before a rain

Walnut Husk Fly, Irrigation, TRAPs Website

Fri, 29 Jun 2012 00:00:00 MST

pdf version

June 29, 2012

In this Issue:

Insect/Disease Activity
- Walnut Husk Fly
News/Production Information

What to Look for/Do Now:

Most areas now have a "break" between codling moth and peach twig borer generations except Salt Lake City, at which codling moth second generation starts now.
Make sure trees are getting watered properly in this hot, dry weather.
Iron chlorosis is evident on new foliage of peach, plum; consider getting leaf nutrition analysis in early August

Current Insect and Disease Activity

Walnut Husk Fly

Walnut husk fly causes the husk to turn black and be difficult to remove, but does
not damage the nut.

We have received reports from Layton and other areas of northern Utah that walnut husk fly has been found, so it is now time to treat black and English walnut trees for this pest for all areas of northern Utah. Late peach varieties are also susceptible, where they are growing near walnuts. Emergence will continue to late September, with peak emergence to occur starting the week of July 23.

This is a full month earlier than last year, which unfortunately means more treatments on the walnuts. Begin sprays now, continuing at regular intervals until the walnuts are within 1 month of harvest. Eggs laid later than this will not have time to develop and cause damage. If you are not sure if you have walnut husk fly, you can hang a Pherocon AM yellow sticky trap (purchase online or by phone from Great Lakes IPM). The flies are identified by their wing pattern.

If you don’t mind the extra work of removing the damaged husks, treatment on walnuts is not entirely necessary because the kernel is usually not damaged. Storing the infested nuts in a damp burlap bag for 2-3 days will help in husk removal.

Early walnut husk fly feeding on young walnuts causes the nut to shrivel, turn moldy, and drop prematurely. Later feeding (late Aug. – Sept.) will not affect the kernel, but will result in a husk that is stained black and a hull that is difficult to separate from the nut. The maggots feed for 3 to 5 weeks before dropping to the soil to pupate.

Options for backyard trees are spinosad (Green Light, Gardens Alive Bull’s Eye, Monterey) which is applied every 7 days, or acetamiprid (Ortho Flower, Fruit, and Vegetable), which is applied every 14 days. Make sure you cover the entire tree.

Another option is using a bait with spinosad. The bait attracts the adult flies to feed on the product, and the spinosad kills the flies. GF-120 is a prepared bait, but is only sold in gallon sized containers for at least $80. You could consider mixing your own bait solution with spinosad concentrate, and about 4 to 6 tablespoons of molasses per gallon of water applied. The GF-120 or homemade spray mix does not need to cover the entire tree. Instead, it should be applied as evenly spaced, large droplets.

News and Production Information

Fruit Grower Meetings

The fourth summer field meeting for the Northern Utah Fruit Growers (commercial growers in Box Elder, Weber, Cache, and Davis counties) was held on the evening of Wednesday, June 27, at the North Ogden LDS Church Welfare Peach Farm. The growers learned about upcoming pest issues to watch for, including an interesting explanation of Diane Alston’s research on prionus root borer. This can be a troublesome pest of cherries in sandy soils. (More about that work can be found in a past Utah Pests News article).

Much of the time was spent on the importance of irrigating trees in summer (see next article below). Dr. Brent Black explained the use of ET readings on the Utah Climate Center orchard weather data website, soil moisture meters (every commercial orchard should use them), what the readings mean, and how to interpret them. He has several fact sheets on irrigating fruit trees, and those links are provided in the article below.

USU Extension Ag Agent, James Barnhill, showed the use of “high tech” moisture monitoring sensors whose data can be downloaded to a special software program that provides precise information on when to water, and the effectiveness of the waterings. We ended the meeting by touring the orchard to learn from the manager, Bruce Liston, about the successful management practices that are conducted on the farm.

If you are a commercial grower in any of the counties listed above and are interested in attending a meeting (but do not receive the email or postcard announcements), please send us a message with your contact information. The meetings are a great way to learn about pest and production information from USU Extension, and to ask questions about your own orchard.

The next meeting will occur in September to discuss fall chores. Hope to see you there!

Orchard Irrigation is Important in Hot, Dry Weather

Content obtained from the "Orchard Irrigation" fact sheets by Dr. Brent Black and others found on the USU Extension website.

Commercial and home growers should be thinking about irrigation practices for fruit trees, especially during the time when fruit is on the tree and ripening. Drought stress will reduce fruit size or lead to sunburn or shriveling, and will stress trees so that they may be more susceptible to flatheaded borers. Stone fruits, in particular, are sensitive to water stress during the period of flower bud formation for the following year (which can lead to double-fruiting), usually in July. Over-irrigation is just as detrimental, especially in poorly drained soils.

Tree water use

How much water fruit trees use depends on species, cultivars, tree size and air temperature. Trees use water daily through updake by the roots and then transpiration from the leaves. This daily water use can be measured by evapotranspiration (ET), expressed as inches/day or inches/week, which is the amount of water evaporating off the soil surface plus the water used by the tree. ET is estimated from air temperature, relative humidity and wind speed. At full bloom, an orchard is using very little water. Water use increases dramatically until the full canopy is established, and increases again slightly (mid-season to harvest for apple, fruit ripening for peach), and then declines after harvest.

Water output

Whichever irrigation system you utilize, it is important to know how much water is being applied.

sprinklers and microsprinklers: place catch cans in multiple locations in your planting and collect water for a known period of time. Measure the inches collected in each can and calculate an average of all the cans.
drip irrigation: measure flow rate (in gal/hr) by placing catch cans under the emitters. When setting up drip, keep in mind that it is sufficient if the drip irrigation wets 25 - 60% of the root zone for mature trees.

Ways to determine when to water

Soil moisture meter
There are a few options for measuring soil mosture with sensors, some more expensive than others. The advantage to using a soil moisture sensor is that there are no calculations to make and a reading of moisture is instanteous. Ideally, several sensors should be placed throughout the orchard at varying depths. For each sensor, the reading (depending on soil type) will determine when to water.

Moisture blocks (WatermarkTM sensor Irrometer Co., Riverside CA) are permanently installed in the soil, and wires from the sensors are attached to a handheld unit that measures relectrical esistance (about $145). The handheld unit reports soil moisture content in centibars, where values close to zero indicate a wet soil and high values represent dry soil.

Tensiometers (many brands), which are less expensive, measure soil moisture tension, which indicates the effort required by root systems to extract water from the soil. Higer tension means drier soils.

Using ET
This method calculates the amount of irrigation required based on a percentage of the evaporation rate. The percentage used is called the crop factor. Crop factors vary with crop type and the growth stage of trees. You can get ET readings for a variety of locations in Utah from the Utah Climate Center's “orchard weather data” website. (Select the location, then the year, and hit submit for a table from Jan 1 – today). The crop coeffecients are published in the following fact sheets by Dr. Brent Black and others, for each fruit: cherry, peach, apple.

How Much Water is Needed

Irrigation requirements depend on how much water your soil type can store. If you apply too much water, it percolates below the root zone, leaching away nutrients, and is never used. About 70% of water usage occurs in the upper 2/3 of the rooting zone, which is about the upper 18-24 inches of soil.

Soil moisture sensors will tell the level at which field capacity occurs. By graphing the readings from soil moisture meters over time, you can fine tune when to water and how much to use. Efficient irrigation aims to keep the readings of the sensors between field capacity and the plant’s stress point. By having the sensors at at least 2 different depths, you can determine whether you are under- or over-watering.

ET values can be used to determine how much water is needed to irrigate effectively, and how often, but requires a bit of calculation. You will need to know the following:

weekly ET
the crop coefficient value
total storage capacity for readily available water
- sandy: 0.75-1.5 inches/3 ft depth
- loam: 2-3 inches/3 ft depth
- clay: 2.5-3 inches/3 ft depth
the efficiency of the type of watering system you use
- microsprinkler or drip: 70 to 90% efficient
- overhead sprinkler: 60 to 75% efficient
- flood and furrow irrigation: 30 to 50% efficient

More on these calculations can be seen in the individual fruit fact sheets noted above.

How to Look up Codling Moth, Peach Twig Borer Spray Dates Online

The TRAPs website (Timing Resource and Alert for Pests), housed on the Utah Climate Center website, is a valuable tool for looking up when to spray certain plant pests. The TRAPs website provides this information for almost 60 locations in Utah. This is where we get the "when to spray" information for these IPM pest advisories. And for some pests, like codling moth and peach twig borer, we can tell how many adult moths have emerged and how many eggs have hatched per generation based on daily temperatures. That information is also included on the TRAPs website.

The steps below show how to use TRAPs, or you can view a video tutorial that explains the site in more detail.

TRAPs opens with a map loaded with red "dots" that represent weather stations in Utah. Note that the map takes a few moments to load the stations:

Using TRAPs, Step 1

Select the weather station location closest to you by clicking on a red dot on the map, or by one of the two methods explained below.

Using TRAPs, Steps 2 and 3

After you have selected your city, click on the "pest" drop down list to select the pest. Then, hit "submit" for quick access to the results page.

Using TRAPs, Alternative to Step 3

If you hang monitoring traps and determine a biofix for certain pests on your own farm, you can enter that information by clicking on "Enter your own Dates." The biofix date is the date of first moth flight, and the end date is typically the current date. This option is also useful to look at historical dates to make comparisons.

Using TRAPs, Step 4

The results page shows all data from the pest biofix/start date to the current date, plus 5 weeks of forecasted data (the first 6 days are local forecast and the remaining is from 30-year averages). For example, this table below shows that in North Holladay, on June 28, egg hatch for the second generation of codling moth is just beginning (1.3%), and that about 16% of adult moths have emerged.

Click on a row with a blue circular "information" icon to see the "Management Actions" on the right side of the table. This information tells when to start or stop sprays.

We hope that the TRAPs website is useful for you, and appreciate your feedback. If you are in a location that is not represented on the map, you can notify us by clicking on the link below the map on the TRAPs home page, that says, "Is your location missing?"

Spider Mites, Peach Twig Borer

Fri, 22 Jun 2012 00:00:00 MST

pdf version

June 22, 2012

In this Issue:

Insect/Disease Activity
Upcoming Monitoring/Insect Activity
When Do I Spray?
- Codling Moth
- Peach Twig Borer
Sprays-Commercial
Sprays-Residential

What to Look for/Do Now:

Powdery mildew continues to develop in cherries
San Jose scale crawlers: Cache, Carbon, Uintah counties should treat June 26; make second application 2 weeks later in heavy infestations
Iron chlorosis is evident on new foliage of peach, plum; consider getting leaf nutrition analysis in early August

Current Insect and Disease Activity

APPLES/PEARS

Codling Moth

Towards the end of June/early July, egg hatch for the first generation will be over in all areas of the Wasatch Front. Plan your last treatment accordingly. The start of second generation egg hatch will be about 7 or more days later, during which time the fruit does not need to be protected. The table on page 3 shows the dates for your area.

For those who have monitoring traps, you’ll notice that your weekly trap catch will do down dramatically this week in areas along the Wasatch Front, as all moths in the first generation have emerged. Second generation moth flight picks up speed around July 4.

Spider Mites

Spider mites on pear cause different symptoms than the typical stippling pattern on most fruit trees.

Spider mites were seen in some locations in Utah and Box Elder counties, primarily on the lowest leaves of the inner canopy.

Keep a close watch on your own fruit trees for build-up of spider mite colonies. Trees can tolerate a low to moderate population (7-10 mites/leaf). But hot temperatures and dust will increase mite development and reproductive rates. In addition, some insecticides like carbaryl (Sevin) and imidacloprid (Provado and generics) can actually promote spider mite reproduction.

Light infestations cause what is called stippling on the foliage. The spider mites feed with piercing mouthparts, and suck out plant cell contents, leaving behind tiny chlorotic (yellow) spots. Heavier feeding can cause the tissue to actually scorch, known as “mite burn.” On pears, mite feeding does not cause stippling, and sometimes it may not be obvious that spider mites are present without looking at the undersides of the leaves. Pear leaves may show slight scorching or blackening of leaf edges and petioles. Also, heavy feeding on older leaves can cause newly emerging foliage to be deformed or scorched.

Before making a decision on whether to treat for mites, look for predatory mites within the pest mite population. These are fast moving mites, about the same size, that can prevent spider mite densities from exceeding economic thresholds. If predators are present, then a treatment may not be necessary. When treating, good coverage is essential.

STONE FRUITS

Peach Twig Borer

Look for peach twig borer damage on shoot tips now. Just the top inch or so
will be affected, and the foliage will be wilted, underdeveloped, or crispy.

Larvae of the first summer generation are actively feeding within succulent shoots of apricot, peach, and nectarine. They bore into the tips of the shoots and feed just on the upper inch or so of growth, causing the leaves to wilt over. Feeding is almost always associated with some oozing at the shoot tip. Egg hatch of this first generation will be ending soon (late June to mid July, depending on your location). As with codling moth, time your last spray for 1-3 weeks before that “ending spray date” (depending on your product). The start of the second generation will be about 2 weeks later. See the table on page 4 for the dates for your area.

Peach twig borer larvae prefer feeding in shoots over fruit, but once the shoots harden off, adult moths instead lay eggs on the ripening fruit, which is why the second generation can be more damaging.

Western Cherry Fruit Fly

Many locations have harvested or will begin harvesting sweet cherries, with tart cherries not far off. If a spray is needed close to harvest, choose one with a short pre-harvest interval, like GF-120 (4 hours), Sevin (3 days), or Malathion (1-3 days). Note that the straight spinosad products (Success, Entrust) have a 7-day pre-harvest interval.

Greater Peachtree Borer

Ooze mixed with frass near the base of a peach tree.

A single peachtree borer was captured in a trap in Cache County, so bark treatments should start in all cooler areas of northern Utah (Cache, Carbon, Uintah, Wasatch counties). All other locations should have already started.

Again, sprays only need to be applied to the lower 12-18” of the trunk and any exposed roots. The residual material of the insecticide on the bark will kill the eggs and newly hatching larvae. Weeds should be cleared from around the base of the trunk so that the material can thoroughly cover the bark.

Cherry Powdery Mildew

Multiple years of heavy cropping and powdery mildew can lead to decline in tart cherries.

Continue to keep an eye on powdery mildew on cherries. Many orchards have tart cherry trees loaded with fruit, and after several years of heavy crops, the added stress of powdery mildew preventing photosynthesis can result in a loss of vigor that could be severe. Powdery mildew does not need free water to spread, just humidity (which is raised just enough by microsprinkler irrigation), so don’t think that this dry weather means no disease.

Upcoming Monitoring/Insect Activity

Pest	Host(s)	Monitoring Action
San Jose scale	apple mostly	Crawler emergence early June; treat in late June
White apple leafhopper	apple	Adults of first generation form in late June; nymphs of second generation start showing up in mid-July
Cat-facing insects (lygus, stink bugs)	peach	As peaches start to ripen, these piercing-sucking insects will become attracted to feeding on the flesh

Codling Moth - When to Spray

Codling Moth, First and Second Generations

First generation egg hatch is still underway; continue protecting fruit until the end of egg hatch. Then, start again for the second generation.

County	Location	End of Egg Hatch (920 DD)	Start Sprays; Second Generation (1150 DD, 1-2% egg hatch)
Box Elder	Perry	June 28	July 9
Box Elder	Tremonton	July 8	July 18
Cache	River Heights	July 11	July 21
Cache	Smithfield	July 11	July 20
Carbon	Price	July 3	July 15
Davis	Kaysville	June 29	July 8
Grand	Castle Valley	June 11	June 20
Iron	Cedar City	July 1	July 11
Salt Lake	All Regions	June 23	July 3
Tooele	Tooele	June 29	July 8
Uintah	Vernal	June 29	July 10
Utah	Alpine	July 2	July 12
	American Fork	June 28	July 8
	Genola	June 27	July 7
	Lincoln Point	June 28	July 8
	Orem	June 26	July 5
	Payson	June 30	July 9
	Santaquin	June 29	July 9
Weber	Pleasant View	June 29	July 8
Wasatch	Heber City	July 18	July 30

Peach Twig Borer - When to Spray

Peach Twig Borer, First and Second Generations

End of first generation egg hatch, where you should “keep fruit protected up to” is at 800 degree days. Second generation egg hatch, which will be occurring mostly on fruit, begins a few weeks after the first generation ends. Like the first generation, if you had moderate to severe PTB damage last year, use the earlier spray date to start again. If you had very little PTB damage last year, use the later date to start sprays. These two dates correspond to 1200 and 1300 degree days after biofix, or 5% and 16% egg hatch.

County	Location	Keep Fruit Protected Up To:	Start Protecting Fruit 2nd Generation, large pop.	Start Protecting Fruit 2nd Generation, small pop.
Box Elder	Perry	June 29	July 17	July 22
Box Elder	Tremonton	July 12	July 28	August 1
Cache	River Heights	July 14	August 1	August 5
Cache	Smithfield	July 14	July 31	August 4
Carbon	Price	July 14	August 3	August 9
Davis	Kaysville	June 27	July 14	July 18
Grand	Castle Valley	June 10	June 27	July 1
Iron	Cedar City	June 30	July 17	July 21
Salt Lake	All Regions	June 24	July 10	July 14
Tooele	Tooele	June 23	July 10	July 14
Uintah	Vernal	June 29	July 18	July 23
Utah	Alpine	July 7	July 25	July 29
	American Fork	June 29	July 16	July 20
	Genola	June 29	July 16	July 20
	Orem	June 28	July 15	July 19
	Payson	June 29	July 15	July 19
	Santaquin	July 1	July 17	July 21
Weber	Pleasant View	June 29	July 15	July 19
Wasatch	Heber City	July 20	August 11	August 16

Spray Materials - Commercial Applicators

Please look up spray material options in the 2012 Utah-Colorado Tree Fruit Production Guide. If you do not have a copy and would like one, contact marion.murray@usu.edu. You may also access spray options at the guide’s companion website at intermountainfruit.org.

Spray Materials - Residential Applicators

Note that these treatments are only recommended if you know you have the particular pest in your trees. We recommend learning about specific pests, and scouting your trees at least once/week. Products are listed by Conventional (usually broad-spectrum pesticides that are effective, but harmful to beneficial insects), or Soft/Organic (not as effective, but safer for environment and humans). Products are listed in order of efficacy.

Target Pest	Host	Chemical	Example Brands	Comments
Both codling moth AND Peach twig borer (except Cyd-X)	apple, pear	*Conventional*		acetamiprid: every 14 days carbaryl: every 14 - 21 days malathion: every 7 days gamma-cyhalothrin: every 14 days hort. oil: lasts 5-7 days for killing eggs; use at beginning of each generation; apply at 1% rate only when temperatures are below 80; follow up with a different product spinosad: every 7 days codling moth virus (codling moth only) can only be purchased online
		acetamiprid	Ortho Max Flower, Fruit, and Veg.
		carbaryl	Sevin, Bonide Fruit Tree Spray, etc.
		malathion	Malathion
		gamma-cyhalothrin	Spectracide Triazicide

		*Soft/organic*
		hort. oil (1%)	Many products
		spinosad	Green Light, Gardens Alive Bull’s Eye, Monterey
		codling moth virus	Cyd-X
Powdery mildew	apple	*Conventional*		do not apply lime sulfur when temperature is over 75 degrees F, and do not mix with oil or apply after or before oil
		bayleton	Lilly Miller
		propiconazole	Ferti-Lome

		*Soft/organic*
		lime sulfur	Bonide
		neem oil	Garden Safe
		potassium bicarbonate	Kaligreen
Coryneum blight	peach, apricot	captan	Captan	use as a preventive before a rain
Aphids	all	1% horticultural oil	variety	these work as contact sprays only, so thorough coverage is important; repeat will be needed for woolly apple aphid
Aphids	all	insecticidal soap	variety
Western cherry fruit fly	cherry	acetamiprid	Ortho Max Flower, Fruit, and Veg.	continue protecting every 1-2 weeks until harvest
		carbaryl	Sevin, Bonide Fruit Tree Spray, etc.
		spinosad	Green Light, Gardens Alive Bull’s Eye, Monterey